Everything You Need to Know About the Tension Setting

If you want an engagement ring that stands out, look for more than just an unusual stone and opt for a unique setting. The tension setting is a departure from the more classic settings you’re probably used to seeing. This modern, sleek look is ideal for the bride-to-be who wants to put her own spin on the traditional engagement ring.

Pros of the Tension Setting

Many people opt for a tension setting because they want something different than a traditional setting. “Tension settings are extremely unique and not seen very often,” explains Peter Amerosi, diamond expert and vice president of Gerald Peters. “As a result, this style of gemstone setting leads to unique jewelry, and it’s admired for its unusual appearance.”

The tension setting can also put more attention on your diamond or gemstone. “A tension setting allows for the diamond to be held in a secure place while also enhancing its brilliance so it can be seen in full view from more angles with minimal metal surrounding the stone,” says Ryan Gozlan, a custom jeweler and co-founder of Lisa Gozlan Jewelry. “In essence, it’s all diamond and no metal, which really allows for the stone to sparkle.”

And while tension settings can appear quite fragile (it looks like the diamond might fall at any moment), they are actually much more secure than they seem. “It takes a great deal of force to loosen a tension set gemstone,” assures Amerosi.

Cons of the Tension Setting

For all the pros, however, there are several negatives to consider. The tension setting can be more expensive because it requires a specialized skill set to create. “Only 10% to 15% of jewelers actually know how to properly tension set, which is why it can be so costly, and a risk when you don’t choose the right jeweler,” says Gozlan.

They are also difficult to size. In fact, Amerosi recommends that you should never size them as it can increase the chances of the stone coming loose. Since it’s common for rings to be sized at some point, this is a pretty big disadvantage.

If you’re looking for a ring that is delicate with a thin band, then you probably won’t like a ring with a tension setting. “Because tension settings need to be strong to prevent the diamond or gemstone from coming loose, they tend to be very thick and metal heavy,” explains Olivia Landau, diamond expert and CEO of The Clear Cut.

While tension settings aren’t going to fall apart immediately, they are still considerably more delicate than, say, a halo setting. “Due to the hardness of a diamond being greater than the hardness of precious metals, even with a strong and metal heavy setting, the diamond may eventually wear down the groove it’s held in place by and come loose or fall out anyway,” says Landau.

What to Look for in a Tension Setting

According to Gozlan, one of the most important things to look for in a tension setting is picking a high-quality diamond since the setting attracts so much attention to the stone. There’s not much that distracts from the diamond, so you’ll want a stone with high-quality cut and color.

You should also make sure to do your research before picking a jeweler. Again, the tension setting is extremely difficult to perfect and you want someone who knows what they’re doing. Amerosi recommends using a reputable jeweler with a strong history of quality jewelry. “Generally, symmetrical cuts are best for tension setting,” Amerosi says. “Most often, round cuts and princess cut stones are favored.”

Now, scroll through these stunning tension setting engagement rings.