The Prong Setting: The Complete Guide

As ubiquitous as prong setting engagement rings may seem, there was a time when this silhouette was virtually nonexistent. Fast forward to the 19th-century, this sleek style burst onto the scene and forever changed the way jewelers feature remarkable gemstones.

Learn about the history of this ultra-popular ring setting, the best stone cuts to pair with them, and why their versatility is key when deciding what aesthetic is best for you.

Pros and Cons of Prong Settings

Prong settings are popular because of their classic and timeless look. If you decide to go with a prong setting for your engagement ring, you will never have a problem with it going out of style. Prongs are also a great way to show the most of your engagement stone since they don't take up much room on the ring. The small shape of prongs also makes it easier to clean your stone. You are able to get to the sides and underside of the stone with this type of setting, ensuring that your ring has maximum shine after each clean.

A potential con that comes with a prong setting is getting something caught on one of the prongs. When looking for a prong setting, you’ll want to work with a trusted jeweler. “They should ensure the prongs are properly finished,” Kristen Lawler-Trustey of Forevermark tells Brides. “Prong settings that aren’t properly refined may catch or snag on fabric or skin.” If the stone is not set evenly within the prongs, it could wiggle loose. “Because they are so delicately set, prong settings can reveal inferior workmanship,” she adds.

What to Look For in a Prong Setting

• What cuts work best with a prong setting? Prong settings are incredibly versatile and work with almost any stone cut, including round brilliant, pear, princess, emerald, cushion, and radiant.
• Are there any cuts that will absolutely not work with this type of setting?
  Both experts agree that rare antique cuts, like cabochon, may be better suited with other setting techniques. “Prong settings can be quite labor-intensive,” Fromont explains. “Their proportions are often hand-cut and finished and each side has to be identical, particularly to suit the perfection of an impressively-cut stone.” Because of this, costs for prong settings can run the gamut.
• Are there different types of prong settings? A four or six-prong setting is the most common type of prong setting, but you can find prongs that are rounded or tapered to a point to form a claw setting. “That’s a particularly hot trend right now,” Lawler-Trustey notes. “Claw settings can have an edgy, modern feel in comparison to their rounded counterparts.”
• What stones work best with a prong setting? A prong setting works with just about any stone! This type of setting is essential if you choose a softer stone for your engagement ring, like morganite or emerald, because it gives less durable stones more protection against chipping or other damage. 

How to Care for Your Prong Setting

Both experts nod to a six-month cleaning and check-up with a trusted jeweler for ensuring your prong setting stands the test of time. “The jeweler will inspect the prongs of your jewelry for any weaknesses or trauma, making sure that the diamond(s) remain safe in the setting,” says Lawler-Trustey.

Fromont also explains that “over the course of a long time, the claws holding the stone in will need to be re-tipped, which can be done easily…the last thing you want is for your diamond to suddenly be missing one morning after a big night out.”

In terms of at-home care, Lawler-Trustey recommends using hot soapy water and a gentle brush with a soft-bristle or a non-abrasive jewelry cleaner followed up with a lint-free cloth. For a less-traditional approach to cleaning, Fromont suggests soap crystals and aluminum foil for a “mostly non-abrasive way to clean your jewelry.”

The History of Prong Settings

Prong settings experienced an uptick in popularity during the 19th century “as stone-cutting techniques and larger, more dramatic, less-included stones were unearthed,” says Meadowlark co-founder Greg Fromont. Prior to prongs, the majority of rings featured bezel or rub-over settings. “These older styles hid the stone away but as more fantastical stones were created, jewelers sought to show off the full personality of a stone.”

A prong setting helped create the illusion that the stone was floating above your finger for the first time. Perhaps the best-known purveyor of prong engagement ring settings was the now-iconic Tiffany setting, introduced in 1886.

Ahead, unique and beautiful engagement rings featuring a prong setting.