Princess-Cut Diamond Engagement Rings: The Complete Guide

What do Emily Ratajkowski and Kate Bosworth have in common? Besides being famous actresses and fashion darlings, they both have princess-cut engagement rings. While Bosworth went romantic with a vintage-inspired setting, Ratajkowski paired hers with a pear-cut diamond for a modern look. Whichever you prefer, the versatility of this diamond shape is just one of many reasons to love it.

While the round brilliant-cut may be the most popular diamond shape of the bunch, the princess-cut maintains the fire that makes round brilliants desirable while boasting a timeless and modern geometric silhouette. “The top facet on a princess-cut diamond is a lot bigger than what you’d see on a round-cut diamond,” Priori says. “That makes the stone look brighter and whiter because it lets more light in.”

Pros and Cons of the Princess-Cut Diamond

Princess-cut stones are beloved because they combine the best aspects of several cuts into one style. The square look is modern and chic and is a great alternative to a round brilliant diamond. Princess-cut diamonds are a cost-effective option for engagement rings since the shape of the diamond is already similar to the shape of the rough diamond it is cut from. Therefore, less diamond is wasted by gem cutters. 

However, princess-cut diamonds have the potential to appear smaller than their counterparts. “Because princess-cuts carry most of their weight in the pavilion (the underside of the diamond), they may appear smaller than another diamond shape with the same carat weight,” Shane Co. President and CEO Rordan Shane tells Brides. “While one person may say their con is the cut appearing smaller than other shapes, another might find this inconsequential, favoring sparkle more than size.” Because of these fluctuations, the best way to decipher which diamond is right for you is by looking at it up close.

What to Look for in Princess-Cut Diamonds

• What settings pair best with princess-cuts? You’ll want to choose a prong style that provides extra protection for the corners. Per Priori, the best option for protecting a princess-cut stone is a V-prong setting, but if you’re not a fan of the look, there are other options.
• How much do princess-cut engagement rings cost? Princess-cuts are typically priced lower per carat than other brilliant cuts. Why? Well, the design allows for more of the rough stone to be saved in the cutting process. “They also hide inclusions, or natural imperfections, really well, because they’re so faceted and deep,” Priori adds.
• Which of the 4Cs is most important when it comes to a princess-cut diamond?
  The cut of the diamond is extremely important when searching for a princess-cut because that is what will bring out the most sparkle in the stone. Since the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) has not come out with an exact overall cut grade for princess-cuts, some gem cutters could take advantage of that and sell diamonds of a lesser quality to increase yield. Make sure to ask many questions when picking out your princess-cut to ensure you are getting the best quality diamond for your money.

How to Care for Your Princess-Cut Diamond

Shane suggests caring for your diamond by avoiding harsh chemicals in cleaning supplies, as well as using light dish soap, warm water, and a soft-bristled toothbrush to clean it at home. “It’s also important to check your princess-cut diamond every now and then to ensure it hasn’t become loose in the setting,” he adds. “The sharper corners of the stone can make it more likely to snag than other shapes.”

History of the Princess-Cut Diamond

Per Priori, square diamonds have been cut since the 1700s, but the princess-cut as we know it today is actually one of the newest shapes on the market.

The shape saw a resurgence in the 1960s when London jeweler Arpad Nagy began offering a “profile” cut that allowed for less of the rough stone to be shed in the cutting process. After that, South African designer Basil Watermeyer introduced the beautiful but difficult-to-replicate family of Barion cuts in the 1970s. The height of popularity for princess-cut stones began in 1979 when Israeli diamond duo Betazel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz perfected the “quadrillion” cut, a precursor to the princess-cut most similar to the shape we currently know it as.

There’s not much documented about why “princess” was chosen for the name, but many suspect it’s because the combination of brilliant sparkle and classic clean lines makes the cut feel fit for royalty.

Ahead, scroll through stunning and unique princess-cut engagement rings.