Everything You Need to Know About Bezel-Set Engagement Rings

The bezel setting (also known as Rubover) is arguably the less popular option for engagement rings compared to claw settings. However, this underdog style is resurfacing as a desirable ring characteristic for modern brides. Though the overall aesthetic of a bezel setting feels modern at first glance, it actually nods to thousands of years of stone-setting history, making it all the more worthy of incorporating into your engagement ring's design.

The History of Bezel Settings

“The bezel setting has probably been used since the beginning of jewelry design and stone setting,” jewelry designer Emma Clarkson Webb tells Brides. This simple design is “the oldest type of setting.” Modern celebrity endorsers of this engagement ring style include fashion It girls like Poppy Delevingne and Mary-Kate Olsen.

Since bezel settings are rooted in history, it’s a style you’ll often spot in antique jewelry, however, there are plenty of modern interpretations of bezel settings giving it multiple folds of versatility.

What to Look for in a Bezel Setting 

Bezel settings are great for several reasons. First, “the bezel setting is often used in particular for precious and fragile stones,” Webb says. This is thanks to the protection it provides. “A massive pro is the security of the stone because the metal fully surrounds the gemstone meaning that it is incredibly protected against daily wear and tear,” Webb adds.

Additionally, “bezel settings create a trick of the eye to enhance the size of the stone,” Webb notes. “They create an illusion that the stone is larger than it actually is, particularly when the color of the metal is matched to the color of the stone.”

Though it can adapt to different stone cuts, Webb notes that a round brilliant cut works especially well in a bezel setting. As for pricing, bezel settings “tend to be more expensive as they are more labor-intensive for the jeweler to set the stone and subsequently require more metal weight.”

A bezel setting can often appear chunkier compared to its claw setting counterparts that expose stones more. If you’re wanting to create a modern, architectural look, bezel settings are a smart pick. However, choosing a bezel setting doesn’t mean it necessarily has to look chunky. "I often like mixing the bezel with a claw setting to provide a more interesting design,” Webb mentions.

And now, scroll through bezel-set engagement rings you'll love.