Bezel Set Engagement Rings: The Complete Guide

The bezel setting (also known as rubover) is arguably a less popular option for engagement rings, especially when compared to claw settings. However, this underdog style is resurfacing as a desirable ring characteristic for modern brides. Though the overall aesthetic of a bezel setting feels modern at first glance, it actually nods to thousands of years of stone-setting history, making it all the more worthy of incorporating into your engagement ring's design.

“The bezel setting has probably been used since the beginning of jewelry design and stone setting,” says jewelry designer Emma Clarkson Webb. This simple design is “the oldest type of setting.” Modern celebrity endorsers of this engagement ring style include fashion "it" girls like Poppy Delevingne and Mary-Kate Olsen.

Since bezel settings are rooted in history, it’s a style you’ll often spot in antique jewelry; however, there are plenty of modern interpretations of bezel settings giving it multiple folds of versatility.

Learn more about this type of setting and what to look for in a bezel-set engagement ring below.

Pros and Cons of Bezel Settings

Bezel settings are great for several reasons. First, “the bezel setting is often used in particular for precious and fragile stones,” Webb says. This is thanks to the protection it provides. “A massive pro is the security of the stone because the metal fully surrounds the gemstone, meaning that it is incredibly protected against daily wear and tear,” she adds. Additionally, “bezel settings create a trick of the eye to enhance the size of the stone,” Webb notes. “They create an illusion that the stone is larger than it actually is, particularly when the color of the metal is matched to the color of the stone.” However, a bezel setting can often appear chunkier compared to its claw setting counterparts that expose stones more.

What to Look for in a Bezel Setting

• What stone cuts work well in a bezel setting? Though it can adapt to different stone cuts, Webb notes that a round brilliant cut works especially well in a bezel setting.
• How does pricing compare to other rings? As for pricing, bezel settings “tend to be more expensive as they are more labor-intensive for the jeweler to set the stone and subsequently require more metal weight,” Webb says.
• Can bezel settings be mixed with other settings? Yes, they can be. "I often like mixing the bezel with a claw setting to provide a more interesting design,” Webb says.

How to Care for Your Bezel Set Engagement Ring

With metal surrounding the ring’s stone, bezel set rings tend to protect the stone very well in comparison to prong settings. Snagging is less likely to occur, and the tight band of metal is less likely to attract dirt. This makes bezel set engagement rings a breeze to clean. To clean your bezel ring, use warm water and a little bit of dish detergent, then rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Store it in a cloth-lined box when not wearing.

Convinced this type of setting is right for you? Scroll through bezel-set engagement rings you'll love.