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Courtesy of Ila Prevalence / Design by Bailey Mariner
The bezel setting (also known as rubover) is arguably a less popular option for engagement rings, especially when compared to claw settings. However, this underdog style is resurfacing as a desirable ring characteristic for modern brides. Though the overall aesthetic of a bezel setting feels modern at first glance, it actually nods to thousands of years of stone-setting history, making it all the more worthy of incorporating into your engagement ring's design.
What Is a Bezel Setting?
The bezel setting is characterized by a ring of metal that holds the ring’s stone in place. This encasing of metal slightly overlaps the edges of the stone, which helps keep it safe.
“The bezel setting has probably been used since the beginning of jewelry design and stone setting,” says jewelry designer Emma Clarkson Webb. This simple design is “the oldest type of setting.” Modern celebrity endorsers of this engagement ring style include fashion "it" girls like Poppy Delevingne and Mary-Kate Olsen.
Since bezel settings are rooted in history, it’s a style you’ll often spot in antique jewelry; however, there are plenty of modern interpretations of bezel settings giving it multiple folds of versatility.
Learn more about this type of setting and what to look for in a bezel-set engagement ring below.
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Bailey Mariner/Brides
Pros and Cons of Bezel Settings
Bezel settings are great for several reasons. First, “the bezel setting is often used in particular for precious and fragile stones,” Webb says. This is thanks to the protection it provides. “A massive pro is the security of the stone because the metal fully surrounds the gemstone, meaning that it is incredibly protected against daily wear and tear,” she adds. Additionally, “bezel settings create a trick of the eye to enhance the size of the stone,” Webb notes. “They create an illusion that the stone is larger than it actually is, particularly when the color of the metal is matched to the color of the stone.” However, a bezel setting can often appear chunkier compared to its claw setting counterparts that expose stones more.
Meet the Expert
Emma Clarkson Webb is a London-based bespoke fine jewelry designer who specializes in one-of-a-kind pieces. She launched her eponymous brand in 2015 following her return from Hong Kong where she had been working as a bespoke designer focusing on diamonds.
What to Look for in a Bezel Setting
- What stone cuts work well in a bezel setting? Though it can adapt to different stone cuts, Webb notes that a round brilliant cut works especially well in a bezel setting.
- How does pricing compare to other rings? As for pricing, bezel settings “tend to be more expensive as they are more labor-intensive for the jeweler to set the stone and subsequently require more metal weight,” Webb says.
- Can bezel settings be mixed with other settings? Yes, they can be. "I often like mixing the bezel with a claw setting to provide a more interesting design,” Webb says.
How to Care for Your Bezel Set Engagement Ring
With metal surrounding the ring’s stone, bezel set rings tend to protect the stone very well in comparison to prong settings. Snagging is less likely to occur, and the tight band of metal is less likely to attract dirt. This makes bezel set engagement rings a breeze to clean. To clean your bezel ring, use warm water and a little bit of dish detergent, then rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Store it in a cloth-lined box when not wearing.
Convinced this type of setting is right for you? Scroll through bezel-set engagement rings you'll love.
Jemma Wynne Bespoke Brazilian Emerald and Diamond Ring
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Courtesy of Jemma Wynne
We're green with envy. A dazzling bezel set emerald and diamond ring that reminds us of a bygone era.
Nora Kogan Grace Ring
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Courtesy of Nora Kogan
This antique diamond shines bright in a bezel setting alongside a diamond-encrusted 14k solid yellow gold band. If you're looking for a one-of-a-kind antique piece, then consider this your "something old."
Price at time of publish: $18,800
Emily Warden Designs Florence Ring
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Courtesy of Emily Warden Designs
Get ready to fall in love with this stunning 14k yellow gold bezel set ring featuring a rose-cut white diamond flanked by white diamond clusters. It looks beautiful on its own or stacked with other dainty rings.
Price at time of publish: $3,500
Dana Rebecca Bezel Set Round Halo Engagement Ring
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Courtey of Dana Rebecca Designs
Surrounded by a halo of sparkling diamonds, this bezel-set engagement ring speaks to classic romance. Maybe it's the sheer number of pavé-set round diamonds, but something about this ring just screams royal wedding to us.
Jennie Kwon Designs Blue Sapphire Oval Poeme Ring
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Courtesy of Jennie Kwon Designs
This sapphire engagement ring looks and feels like a beloved heirloom piece. The bezel-set design is made to look vintage with a milgrain detail and two flanking diamonds.
Price at time of publish: $510 for 14K Yellow
Michelle Oh Sol Ring
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Courtesy of Michelle Oh
Made to resemble a setting sun, this artfully designed ring is a perfect match for modern brides. A delicate yellow gold band is gracefully accompanied by a floating bezel-set diamond.
Price at time of publish: $9,150 for 14k Yellow Gold
Porter Gulch Presley Ring
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Courtesy of No. 3 Fine Jewelry
You can't go wrong with a classic solitaire engagement ring. A bezel-set oval diamond commands attention alongside a row of shimmering baguette diamonds lining the band. It looks just as striking on its own as it does coupled with another ring.
Price at time of publish: $5,650
Ashley Zhang Pear Cut Diamond Rolling Ring
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Courtesy of Ashley Zhang
A fashion-forward ring featuring a pear-cut diamond and a thin 14k gold band. The bezel setting gives it a distinct look even if you just wear it on its own.
Price at time of publish: $2,800
Vrai and Oro The Halo Ring in 14k Rose Gold With Pavé Band
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Courtesy of Vrai and Oro
In lieu of a big rock, keep it simple with this minimal, yet elegant, engagement ring. Featuring a signature oval-cut diamond, the knife-edge bezel makes the center stone even more radiant and timeless in design.
Price at time of publish: $13,310 for 5 Carat, H, VS2
Brilliant Earth Luna Bridal Set
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Courtesy of Brilliant Earth
Let your inner sophisticate shine through with this sleek yet simple 18k white gold bridal set. An elevated bezel design lends a hint of modernity while a round center stone keeps it classic.
Price at time of publish: $1,280
WWAKE Solo Signet Ring
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Courtesy of Catbird
This contemporary signet style features an octagonal bezel-cut antique white diamond on a solid 14k yellow gold band. With a unisex knife-edge band, it feels at once modern and vintage.
Price at time of publish: $2,645
Misa Dew Drops Ring
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Courtesy of No. 3 Fine Jewelry
An example of why the bezel setting is a fitting choice for traditional brides with a penchant for timeless beauty. Equal parts dainty and delicate, this beauty is characterized by seven round brilliant-cut white diamonds, all of which are handset in matching bezels.
Price at time of publish: $1,900