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The bezel setting (also known as rubover) is arguably a less popular option for engagement rings, especially when compared to claw settings. However, this underdog style is resurfacing as a desirable ring characteristic for modern brides. Though the overall aesthetic of a bezel setting feels modern at first glance, it actually nods to thousands of years of stone-setting history, making it all the more worthy of incorporating into your engagement ring's design.
What Is a Bezel Setting?
The bezel setting is characterized by a ring of metal that holds the ring’s stone in place. This encasing of metal slightly overlaps the edges of the stone, which helps keep it safe.
“The bezel setting has probably been used since the beginning of jewelry design and stone setting,” says jewelry designer Emma Clarkson Webb. This simple design is “the oldest type of setting.” Modern celebrity endorsers of this engagement ring style include fashion 'it" girls like Poppy Delevingne and Mary-Kate Olsen.
Meet the Expert
Emma Clarkson Webb is a London-based bespoke fine jewelry designer who specializes in one-of-a-kind pieces. She launched her eponymous brand in 2015 following her return from Hong Kong where she had been working as a bespoke designer focusing on diamonds.
Since bezel settings are rooted in history, it’s a style you’ll often spot in antique jewelry; however, there are plenty of modern interpretations of bezel settings giving it multiple folds of versatility.
Learn more about bezel set rings below and what to look for in a bezel-set engagement ring.
Pros and Cons of Bezel Settings
Bezel settings are great for several reasons. First, “the bezel setting is often used in particular for precious and fragile stones,” Webb says. This is thanks to the protection it provides. “A massive pro is the security of the stone because the metal fully surrounds the gemstone, meaning that it is incredibly protected against daily wear and tear,” she adds. Additionally, “bezel settings create a trick of the eye to enhance the size of the stone,” Webb notes. “They create an illusion that the stone is larger than it actually is, particularly when the color of the metal is matched to the color of the stone.” However, a bezel setting can often appear chunkier compared to its claw setting counterparts that expose stones more.
What to Look for in a Bezel Setting
• What stone cuts work well in a bezel setting? Though it can adapt to different stone cuts, Webb notes that a round brilliant cut works especially well in a bezel setting.
• How does pricing compare to other rings? As for pricing, bezel settings “tend to be more expensive as they are more labor-intensive for the jeweler to set the stone and subsequently require more metal weight,” Webb says.
• Can bezel settings be mixed with other settings? Yes, they can be. "I often like mixing the bezel with a claw setting to provide a more interesting design,” Webb says.
How to Care for Your Bezel Set Engagement Ring
With metal surrounding the ring’s stone, bezel set rings tend to protect the stone very well in comparison to prong settings. Snagging is less likely to occur, and the tight band of metal is less likely to attract dirt. This makes bezel set engagement rings a breeze to clean. To clean your bezel ring, use warm water and a little bit of dish detergent, then rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Store it in a cloth-lined box when not wearing.
And now, scroll through bezel-set engagement rings you'll love.
Jemma Wynne Bespoke Brazilian Emerald and Diamond Ring
We're green with envy. A dazzling bezel set emerald and diamond ring that reminds us of a bygone era.
Nora Kogan Grace Ring
This antique diamond shines bright in a bezel setting alongside a diamond-encrusted 14k solid yellow gold band. If you're looking for a one-of-a-kind antique piece, then consider this your "something old."
David Yurman Chatelaine Pavé Bezel Ring
This 18k yellow gold champagne citrine ring is accented by a brilliant pavé bezel design. With a classic cable band, this opulent style is expertly crafted and symbolic of your eternal love for one another.
The Kwiat Setting Engagement Ring
Calling all glam brides! Look no further than this exceptionally beautiful Asscher diamond ring with a bezel-set halo. The platinum and pavé style is sure to turn heads for a lifetime.
Anna Sheffield Bezel Set Rosette Ring
A tonal engagement ring that’s perfect for the bride who doesn’t want platinum silver. As if the rose-cut champagne diamond wasn't gorgeous enough on its own, a white diamond halo makes it even more stunning.
Emily Warden Designs Florence Ring
Get ready to fall in love with this stunning 14k yellow gold bezel set ring featuring a rose-cut white diamond flanked by white diamond clusters. It looks beautiful on its own or stacked with other dainty rings.
Dana Rebecca Oval Bezel Engagement Ring
This enchanting engagement ring is characterized by an oval-cut solitaire and a sleek bezel-set frame. The simple silhouette is balanced by a delicate band that's perfect for stacking.
Dana Rebecca Bezel Set Round Halo Engagement Ring
Surrounded by a halo of sparkling diamonds, this bezel-set engagement ring speaks to classic romance. Maybe it's the sheer number of pavé-set round diamonds, but something about this ring just screams royal wedding to us.
Jennie Kwon Designs Sapphire Sotto Voce Ring
This sapphire engagement ring looks and feels like a beloved heirloom piece. The bezel-set design is made to look vintage with a milgrain detail and two flanking diamonds.
Michelle Oh Sol Ring
Made to resemble a setting sun, this artfully designed ring is a perfect match for modern brides. A delicate yellow gold band is gracefully accompanied by a floating bezel-set diamond.
Porter Gulch Presley Ring
You can't go wrong with a classic solitaire engagement ring. A bezel-set oval diamond commands attention alongside a row of shimmering baguette diamonds lining the band. It looks just as striking on its own as it does coupled with another ring.
Ashley Zhang Pear Cut Diamond Rolling Ring
A fashion-forward ring featuring a pear-cut diamond and a thin 14k gold band. The bezel setting gives it a distinct look even if you just wear it on its own.
Kwiat Pear Shape Diamond Engagement Ring in a Bezel Setting
Shine bright with this ultra-sparkly pear-shaped diamond engagement ring in a bezel setting. The elongated center stone will look flattering no matter how you style it.
VRAI and Oro Signature Bezel Engagement Ring
In lieu of a big rock, keep it simple with this minimal, yet elegant, engagement ring. Featuring a signature oval-cut diamond, the knife-edge bezel makes the center stone even more radiant and timeless in design.
Brilliant Earth Luna Bridal Set
Let your inner sophisticate shine through with this sleek yet simple 18k white gold bridal set. An elevated bezel design lends a hint of modernity while a round center stone keeps it classic.
WWAKE Solo Signet Ring
This contemporary signet style features an octagonal bezel-cut antique white diamond on a solid 14k yellow gold band. With a unisex knife-edge band, it feels at once modern and vintage.
The Kwiat Setting Engagement Ring With a Cushion Diamond Bezel Set
Is there anything fancier than a yellow cushion-cut diamond? The saturated hue looks even more brilliant paired with a bezel-set, 18k yellow gold band.
Misa Dew Drops Ring
An example of why the bezel setting is a fitting choice for traditional brides with a penchant for timeless beauty. Equal parts dainty and delicate, this beauty is characterized by seven round brilliant-cut white diamonds, all of which are handset in matching bezels.
Kwiat Engagement Ring With an Ashoka Diamond Bezel Set
This exquisite 18k rose gold bezel-set ring featuring an emerald-cut diamond is a real eye-catcher. It just goes to show that you don't need a big rock to make a statement.
Emma Clarkson Webb TinTin Ring
A bespoke option, this breathtaking ring accentuates the emerald center stone with a bezel setting that gives the ring an elegant, old-world feel.