WHY WE LOVE IT
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The smallest island in the world to belong to two nations. French St. Martin is refined and elegant; Dutch St. Maarten is more informal and built-up.
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Thirty-seven brilliant beaches. Over 400 restaurants. Dutch Casinos!
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One of the better value islands, with many small, independent hotels.
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The French side is far pricier, especially the restaurants. Dutch Philipsburg—a very busy cruise port— is great for duty-free shoppers.
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Caribbean Bests: Orient Bay—one of the world’s most famous nude beaches. Restaurant row Grand Case: the "Gourmet Capital of the Caribbean."
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Good buys: Butterfly-wing jewelry from La Ferme Des Papillons; Guavaberry and Rum Jumbie liqueurs; Delft pottery; swimwear; designer clothes and gemstones; duty-free.
L'ALABAMA
93 Boulevard de Grand Case
Tel: 590-87-8166
A charming conservatory room with wood-beamed ceilings, Caribbean blue tablecloths, and wrought-iron chairs is the setting for this Grand Case romantic classic. The young chef from Normandy tinkers just so with French classics: lamb on lemongrass skewers, red snapper with crab, crèpes and garlic cream.
LE COTTAGE
97 Boulevard de Grand Case
Tel: 590-29-0330
Ocher walls and silk drapes the color of red wine (which is well-represented on a good list) make a cozy background for good, modern fancy-bistro food. Try the lobster ravioli or anything foie gras, and be sure to leave room for a soufflé for dessert.
SPIGA
4 route de L’Esperance
Boulevard de Grand Case
Tel: 590-52-4783
In a restored 19th-century Creole house this excellent nouvelle-Euro spot has a fine pedigree—it belongs to the daughter of Livio, of Philipsburg’s Da Livio fame (call it "Da Da Livio"), and her husband-chef Ciro Russo. Soft lighting, white beadboard walls and fresh flowers make a relaxing atmosphere.
TABBA KHADY
Rue de la Flibuste, Oyster Pond
Tel: 599-556-8886
The romantic tented gazebos surrounding a fountain give this new place (opened in 2005) an exotic "safari camp on the beach" ambiance. The kitchen serves "world cuisine"—dishes in many countries’ vernaculars, including Thailand, France, India, Vietnam, and even Nigeria, where Tabba Khady means "bon appetit."
LE POULET D'ORLEANS
202 Shamba Hill
French Quarter, National Rd. between Philipsburg and Orient Bay
Tel: 590-87-4824
This down-home Creole restaurant in a modest, pretty, white-gingerbread island setting with a little terrace specializes in freshly-killed, homegrown chicken cooked by Chef Tony and served by his kids. It's a must, though it's no kind of secret—especially not since Anthony Bourdain (a part-time resident) visited with his TV show.
CITRUS
The Inn at Cupecoy, 130 Lowlands
Tel: 599-545-4333
A modern boudoir with crimson slipper chairs, white pillars, palms, and silver plates lost its celebrated ex-Charlie Trotter chef, but the kitchen still turns out solid, contemporary dishes like duck breast with foie gras and rosemary polenta.
TEMPTATION
Atlantis Casino, Cupecoy
Tel: 599-545-4601 or-2254
Places calling themselves "Gourmet Village" tend to be the very opposite, but this is one of those rare exceptions. In addition to the pretty darn good pasta served at neighboring La Gondola, the glitzy Atlantis Casino also harbors this very good Carib-fusion place with a big-city vibe, softly-lit, high-design interiors, and an ace chef, Dino Jagtiani—the first-ever St. Maarten Culinary Institute of America alum.
JOHNNY B’S UNDER DE TREE
Miracle Drive #15 in Cole Bay Vlasta
Street food stands are called lolos here, and of the genre, this one’s special. Johnny used to be a fancy chef but decided grilling baby back ribs, chicken, and lobster under an enormous tree was more fulfilling—and he’s very good at it.
LA SAMANNA
Baie Longue
Tel: 590-87-6400
lasamanna.com
By far the most luxury you'll find on this island (with rates to match), this 81-room resort on the idyllic white-sand curve of Baie Longue has plenty of facilities, including three restaurants, three tennis courts, a rare Caribbean Pilates studio (extra charge), and a spa. Except in the lower-rate rooms—which you should avoid—Marrakech-ish decor has given way to a subtle, pleasing white-taupe rattan.
HOTEL L’ESPLANADE
BP 5007, Grand Case
Tel: 590-87-0655
lesplanade.com
In this soulful family-run hotel, delightful bougainvillea-filled hillside garden paths lead to Mediterranean-style villas containing 24 studios and suites with balconies and full kitchens—useful since there’s no restaurant. The lofts and deluxe lofts are the stars, with their cathedral ceilings and wooden stairs leading to sexy little gallery bedrooms.
CLUB ORIENT NATURIST RESORT
1 Baie Orientale
Tel: 590-87-3385
cluborient.com
Pack light... Wooden chalet rooms with A/C, full kitchens, and patios are not luxurious (aside from La Villa, the new, 3-bed deluxe), but this is all about the novelty of dining, shopping, and yachting in the nude. There's also a spa—the only one where the therapists (clothed) don't do that thing with the towels. Take note, the place tends to attract the AARP set.
PASANGGRAHAN ROYAL GUESTHOUSE
19 Front St.
Philipsburg
Tel: 599-542-3588
If you want to be in the center of the action, this former governor's house is the place. A 19th-century gingerbread-trimmed mansion, it fronts on the main street and backs on to a beach. Family-run with great care, it's equal parts funky and fine, with Indonesian/Dutch colonial hybrid decor and a restaurant and bar that have great buzz. The best of the 30 rooms have antiques and vaulted ceilings.
THE SUMMIT RESORT
P.O. Box 4046, Cupecoy
Tel: 599-545-2150
An unpretentious little place beautifully located above Simpson Bay Lagoon with the lights of Marigot across the water. Rooms in the cottages have tiled floors, terraces, dark wood, generic tropical fabrics and lots of mirrors. Get a deluxe, because they come with kitchens. It's all about friendliness and value here.
HORSEBACK RIDING
On the French side, Oceanna Ranch (Baie Lucas, Oyster Pond, Tel: 690-610-897) is run by an expat American and her French husband, while Bayside Riding Stables (Le Galion Beach Rd., Tel: 590-873-664) is a serious equestrian center that accommodates all levels of rider. On the Dutch side, Lucky Stables (Traybay drive 2, Cape Bay, Tel: 599-544-5255) offers one-and two-hour rides, including sunset rides and night rides that end up on the beach with Champagne!
PLANTATION MONT VERNON
Between Grand Case and Orient Bay
Tel: 590-29-5062 (9 a.m.–5 p.m.)
Opened in July 2005, this park-museum fills in the gaps for those curious about the island's history and heritage. Set in tropical parkland, the restored historic buildings and mini-plantations of coffee, cotton, banana, indigo, and sugar are all annotated. It's education masquerading as a romantic stroll.
LOTERIE FARM
Rte. Pic Paradis
Tel: 590-878-616
This "land that time forgot" offers guided hikes on rehabilitated acreage in the lush interior. A strenuous ecochallenge explores an 18th-century sugarcane supply route high, high up, with great views. A sunset hike through the guavaberry forest is gentler, more romantic—and includes rum punch. Or you could just wander on your own.
LA FERME DES PAPILLONS
Le Galion Beach Rd., Quartier D'Orleans
Tel: 590-873-121 (9 a.m.–4:30 p.m.)
A magical place, especially first thing in the morning, when newborn butterflies emerge from pupae. Friendly Tree Nymphs and brilliant Blue Morphos settle on you as you stroll through tropical flowers, waterfall, and fishponds. Skip this on a rainy day, since the butterflies don't like to flutter about when storm clouds gather and sit out all downpours.
ST BARTHS
Tel: 590-542-4096
voyager-st-barths.com
M/V Voyager 1 and 2 make several trips a day to Gustavia, the picturesque harbor capital of the most chic of all French islands. On Wednesdays and Sundays the boat departs Oyster Pond, a 40-minute voyage. Other days, Marigot is the docking place, and these 75-minute voyages have the added attraction of a St. Martin shoreline tour en route. You will need your passport to land.
