Provence & Côte d'Azur

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LE MOULIN DE MOUGINS
Notre Dame de Vie
Mougins
Tel: 93-75-78-24
moulin-mougins.com

A longtime stop on any epicurean odyssey has new life thanks to Roger Vergé's successor Alain Llorca (who divides the menu into "classical," "new and amazing," and "natural") and modernized decor (all-white down to the chandeliers) with a dab of moody eggplant.

RESTAURANT DE BACON
Boulevard de Bacon
Cap d'Antibes
Tel: 93-61-50-02
restaurantdebacon.com

A tent-roofed dining room and divine terrace overlooking the Baie des Anges make the perfect setting for this 70-year-old, family-run, fish destination—an open secret among old Côte d'Azur hands who love its casual glamour and superfresh catch of the day.

LOUIS XV
Hôtel de Paris
Place du Casino
Monte Carlo
Tel: 98-06-88-64
alain-ducasse.com

The beyond-opulent Louis Quinze rooms that anchor the Alain Ducasse empire should provide a lifelong memory. Chef de cuisine Franck Cerutti turns out foie gras and Breton blue lobster, but also obscure, labor-intensive Monégasque peasant dishes. Expect royal service—and an enormous check.

L'OUSTAU DE BAUMANIÈRE
Les Baux de Provence
Tel: 90-54-33-07
oustaudebaumaniere.com

Famous for three decades, chef Jean-André Charial's domain has stone arches, a neutral palette, padded slipper chairs at well-spaced tables—plus a shaded garden. Classics of the region are comme il faut: suckling pig, petits farcis (Niçoise-stuffed vegetables), lamb en croûte. This also happens to be a very fine hotel.

LA COMPAGNIE DES COMPTOIRS
83 Rue Joseph Vernet
Avignon
Tel: 90-85-99-04
lacompagniedescomptoirs.com

A 14th-century convent with handsome cloisters has gone very secular with its red walls, big bedlike couches, palm trees, and backlit bar. The local jeunesse dorée comes for the loungey DJs, but also for the fresh food, listed as Vegetarian, Mediterranean, or Exotic.

JOUNI
10 Rue Lascaris
Nice
Tel: 97-08-14-80
jouni.fr

These few simple wooden tables between terra-cotta walls are Nice's hottest, thanks to young Finnish (yes, from Finland) chef Jouni Tormanen, who is a master of the fish—the freshest around, since it's sourced daily by the owner himself.

LEÏ MOUSCARDINS
Tour du Portalet
St. Tropez
Tel: 94-97-29-00
leimouscardins.com

St. Tropez, fashionable as it is, is no foodie town, so when you want both ambience (white tablecloths, a full frontal of Golfe de Saint Tropez, shaded terrace) and gourmandizing (chef-owner Laurent Tarridec's chestnut galette with cèpes and grilled St. Pierre with sardine cream), this is the must-visit place.

GRAND LARGE
Hotel Port Palace
7 Avenue John F. Kennedy
Monte Carlo
Tel: 97-97-90-00
portpalace.com

If the name describes the kind of night you want, you shouldn't be disappointed with this serious room with a grandstand view of the Prince's Castle on the Rocher, and François Pillard (a young alum of Burgundy's L'Espérance) tinkering creatively with the classics.

 

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