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CAYMAN ISLANDS
Caribbean Destinations:
WHY WE LOVE THEM
- The option of going for a big bells-and-whistles resort or a condo on Grand Cayman or going barefoot-simple on its two sister islands, Cayman Brac and Little Cayman.
- An easy trip—just an hour from Miami—to all three islands.
- A safe and civilized retreat in a prosperous British Overseas Territory, with great beaches and some of the world’s best diving.
- Many existing properties that were thoroughly and tastefully remodeled after 2004’s Hurricane Ivan and several completely new ones
- Grand Cayman’s famous Seven Mile Beach and the island’s nearby capital, George Town—full of great shopping, dining and outdoor activities (including the world’s second-biggest skateboard park).
WHEN TO GO
High season is from December to April. You’ll find the best bargains from early May through July (before the start of the rainy season, which lasts through October) and in November.
WHAT TO PACK
Bathing suits, polarized sunglasses, sunblock, camera, U.S. passport, binoculars (if you’re a birder). For evenings, "smart casual" clothing; a small number of the fancier restaurants request that men wear jackets at dinner.
WHAT TO BUY
Icoa chocolates; Tortuga or Blackbeard rum and rum cakes; jewelry made from caymanite, a striated, volcanic semiprecious gemstone.
TOURISM INFO
Contact the Cayman Islands Department of Tourism in North America (800-263-5805; caymanislands.ky). It operates offices in the Chicago suburb of Oakbrook Terrace (1 Lincoln Center, 18 W. 140 Butterfield Rd., Suite 920; 630-705-0650), Houston (2 Memorial City Plaza, 820 Gessner Rd., Suite 1335; 713-461-1317), Miami (8300 NW 53rd St., Suite 103; 305-599-9033) and New York City (3 Park Ave., 39th floor; 212-889-9009). You can also call 781-431-7771 in the Boston area and 972-335-3540 in Dallas. In Canada, the office is in Toronto (2 Bloor St. W., Suite 700; 416-485-1550).
GETTING MARRIED IN THE CAYMAN ISLANDS
The Caymans have some of the Caribbean’s least-restrictive marriage requirements—you can even hop off a cruise ship and tie the knot the same day. You’ll need to head to the Office of the Deputy Chief Secretary in George Town or the District Commissioner’s Office on Cayman Brac to apply for a nonresident marriage license (US$200). To get it you’ll need your passport, proof of marital status (including the divorce decree or death certificate if you’re divorced or widowed) and a Cayman Islands immigration card (which you receive on your flight in) or a cruise embarkation/disembarkation card. You must also get a Marriage Officer to assist with the ceremony, and you’ll have to round up two witnesses for the ceremony. Visit gov.ky for a list of Marriage Officers. For more information, call the Deputy Chief Secretary’s Office at 345-949-7900.
BLUE BY ERIC RIPERT
The Ritz-Carlton, Grand Cayman
West Bay Road, Seven Mile Beach
Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-943-9000
www.ritzcarlton.com/grandcayman
Unsurprisingly, this celebrity chef’s first island outpost is serving up the Caymans’ most prestigious—and probably priciest—food of the moment. Ripert is the chef at Manhattan’s Le Bernardin, where Richard Brower, Blue’s chef de cuisine, was Ripert’s sous chef. The sleek interior is heavy on elegant woods, with plenty of blue. And "blue" also refers to the ocean, of course, which provides the stars of the plate, thanks to the local fishermen who work with Brower. Served in three- and six-course prix fixe menus, the sea-centered fare mixes the Caribbean, Manhattan and several other spots around the world—as in caviar with fried green plantains; sautéed striped bass with callaloo, pumpkin and shrimp-rum butter; or yellowfin tuna in a citrus-soy vinaigrette. There are also vegetarian, pasta and meat choices and an excellent wine list. For an extra touch of romance, dine on the terrace.
CALYPSO GRILL
Morgan Harbour Road
Morgan’s Harbour, West Bay
Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-949-3948
calypsogrillcayman.com
With boats bobbing in Morgan’s Harbour just off the wooden deck and chef George Fowler’s elegant Caribbean-Creole fare on the plate, this breezy, funky, colorful restaurant a 15-minute drive north of George Town is popular with locals and visitors alike. Seafood is king, fresh off the boats next door. You can opt for the catch of the day blackened, grilled or sautéed, or go for something fancier, like crispy mango shrimp; Jamaican-style wahoo escoveitch with onion and Scotch-bonnet pepper vinaigrette; or grilled ginger-marinated tuna. It also offers tasty options to vegetarians and meat eaters. The restaurant is warm and cozy at dinner. It’s open for lunch as well but closed Mondays.
CAPTAIN’S TABLE
Brac Caribbean Beach Village
Stake Bay
Tel: 345-948-1418
caribesands.com/page11.html
At this independently operated restaurant shared by two sister resorts (see Sleep) on Cayman Brac’s West End, you’ve got the option of eating poolside on the brick patio next to the covered bar area or in the clean peach-and-white interior with maritime touches—multicolor oars, portholes, model sailing ships. The food is tasty and tends toward the middle of the road: the simply prepared catch of the day; nicely done pastas and ribs; international fare ranging from Southwestern (spice-rubbed chicked on a tortilla with chili and cheese) to Italian (scampi Florentine). The statue of the captain outside looks suspiciously piratical.
CHICKEN! CHICKEN!
West Shore Center
West Bay Road
Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-945-2290
chicken2.com
The feathery moniker may be a mite over-the-top, but don’t let that put you off this spot, which has been around since the early ’90s. The tiny West Indies–cottage–style premises, in a little pink strip mall just north of the Marriott (see Sleep), are bright and upbeat, and the fowl is far out—especially if you’re looking to save a few bucks in a local dining panorama that can plunder your pockets as thoroughly as the pirates that once terrorized these isles. The bird in question—herb-marinated and slow-roasted on a big open-hearth wood-burning rotisserie—comes with several sides, including much-raved-about cornbread.
CIMBOCO
West Bay Road
Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-947-2782
cimboco.com
Named after a legendary Cayman sailing ship, this colorful spot has the same owners as Chicken! Chicken! but it’s a couple of steps up in price, with far more variety and atmosphere. It’s steps away from its sibling and across from the Marriott. The food is a tasty mix of Caribbean and Mediterranean—light fare like roti and jerk-pork sandwiches along with seafood (shrimp brochettes) and interesting pizzas (pesto, pine nuts and eggplant!) and pastas (firecracker bow ties, with veggies, pine nuts, olives, basil, feta and a healthy dollop of Scotch-bonnet peppers). You can watch it all being whipped up in the open kitchen.
CRACKED CONCH
Northwest Point Road
West Bay, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-945-5217
One of Grand Cayman’s dining old-timers—founded in another location, Seven Mile Beach, in 1981—has in the past couple of years totally retooled. Back in 1995 its new owners moved it up to the rocky shore across from Boatswain’s Beach (see Play) in West Bay. Now they have Salzburg-born chef Bernhard Prahauser in the kitchen producing such delicacies as green-plantain-crusted grouper and coconut-shrimp-topped pink snapper in a red curry sauce. And, of course, plenty of conch: fritters, ceviche, two types of chowder and the eponymous cracked. The decor is a handsome mix of classic and modern, and waterside patio dining under the stars is a surefire romance kindler. The Sunday brunch always draws raves.
GRAND OLD HOUSE
648 South Church St.
George Town, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-949-9333
grandoldhouse.com
They’re not kidding when they say "grand"—or, for that matter, "old." This gracious seaside manse at the Petra coconut plantation celebrates the big 100 in 2008. Since being turned into a restaurant in 1969, it has become the islands’ top spot for banquets and other special events, whether in the old-fashioned white interior or out on the covered and open decks. The menu deftly mixes the classic (Angus tenderloin in peppercorn sauce) and the nouvelle (ginger-sesame yellowfin with a potato crust). For something you can really write home about, try the green turtle steak scaloppini in a tomato–white wine sauce with herbs, onions and peppers. The wine list is a winner too and has an interesting quirk: You may never again come across so many Austrian vintages.
LOBSTER POT
245 North Church St.
George Town, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-949-2736
lobsterpot.ky
Here’s another Cayman classic with a great wine bar and an expansive wine list also strong on Austria (thanks to manager Gunter Gosch). The Lobster Pot is a bit less elaborate than the Grand Old House but dates back further as a restaurant. This spot on the north George Town waterfront has been a local favorite since it was launched in 1965. Owned since 1981 by the Cumber family, it has a homey ambience, picture windows with expansive sea views and very tasty surf and turf. Yes, lobster is the specialty—whole, tail with drawn butter, with linguine or combined with seagoing colleagues (as in the Cayman trio—broiled lobster tail with grilled mahimahi and garlic shrimp). But the conch, the catch of the day and the steaks are also excellent bets.
RISTORANTE RAGAZZI
Buckingham Square, West Bay Road
Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-945-3484
eragazzi.com
"Ragazzi" is Italian for "the guys," and the guys in question here are Andy Marcher and Paolo Polloni, who in 1999 turned a pizza joint into this cheerful spot with bright blue walls (though no real view to speak of). The antipasti, pastas and mains are expertly done—try the gnocchi with brandy and pistachios or tasty Italian riffs on local seafood like mahimahi. There’s still pizza too: The Caymans’ only wood-burning brick oven turns out more than two dozen varieties. And it’s not all Italian—you can also score tuna sashimi or lobster quesadillas. Andy and Paolo’s new, even chicer Italian-international spot, Luca (871 West Bay Rd.; 345-623-4550; luca.ky), is also well worth checking out.
PIRATES POINT
Pirates Point Resort
Little Cayman
Tel: 345-948-1010
piratespointresort.com/Food.html
On the smallest and most "castaway" of the three Caymans, the refectory at the Pirates Point Resort is probably the best choice for dining. (Paradise Villa’s Hungry Iguana is right next to the water, but it can get a little rowdy. Birds of Paradise, at the Little Cayman Beach Resort—see Sleep—can feel a mite dated.) This dining room is cozy and romantic, with white rattan-style tables and chairs, an attractive cloth ceiling punctuated by wood beams, lots of picture windows and a stone fireplace. On top of that, it delivers some wonderful food. You can thank Cordon Bleu alumna and cookbook author Gladys Howard, who’s big on local sourcing, for concoctions on the order of grilled tuna steak with wasabi and mango salsa and grilled vegetables, or macadamia-crusted mahimahi with a lemon-dill sauce.
CARIB SANDS BEACH RESORT
West End, Cayman Brac
Tel: 345-948-1121, 866-843-2722
caribesands.com
Grand Cayman may be the big kahuna in these isles, but divers and solitude seekers head for its sister island, Cayman Brac—some 89 miles to the northeast and 12 miles long by two miles wide. This pink complex on the West End, catering especially to divers, is one of Brac’s newer and better resorts. It was built in 1999 as a sibling to Brac Caribbean Beach Village, right next door, where you’ll also find the very good Captain’s Table restaurant (see Eat). The 37 one- to three-bedroom apartments, arranged on three floors around a sizable pool, are spacious, bright and breezy, with full kitchens, AC and cable. The staff can arrange for deep-sea fishing trips and other marine excursions, but otherwise things are pretty quiet around here—which, of course, is the point.
CAYMAN VACATION CONDOS
All three islands
caymanvacations.com
The Cayman Islands, and Seven Mile Beach in particular, are known for condominium resorts. This Web site lists most of them: 25 on Grand Cayman (all but two on Seven Mile Beach), three on Little Cayman (including Little Cayman Beach Resort—see below) and one on Cayman Brac. It’s a reasonably varied list, including the well-regarded Lacovia, Plantana, Villas of the Galleon (extensively refurbished after Hurricane Ivan) and one of the newest, the Meridian (opened in 2005). Amenities vary, but most properties have pools, a beach and other resort-style perks. Restaurants are less common, with exceptions such as the Reef Resort. Rates can be as reasonable as US$205 per night.
COBALT COAST RESORT AND SUITES
18 Sea Fan Dr.
West Bay, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-946-5656, 888-946-5656
cobaltcoast.com
Arie Barendrecht’s 18-room manse up on Grand Cayman’s northwest point is a class act. It’s especially appealing if a) you’re a diver, b) you’re into upscale but intimate and/or c) you want access to the action of Seven Mile Beach and George Town without having to stay smack in the middle of it all. Room decor is rattan meets Scandinavian modern (blond wood, cheerful fabrics). On-site amenities include a good dining room and a top-notch dive operator. If you need a sandy beach right outside your door, though, this isn’t the place: The pool and diving are great, but the shore is rocky.
COURTYARD GRAND CAYMAN
1590 West Bay Rd.
Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-946-4433, 800-321-2211
marriott.com/hotels/travel/gcmcy-courtyard-grand-cayman
Admittedly it’s a bit of a cookie-cutter kind of place. But if you’re on a budget and you have your hearts set on Seven Mile Beach, the rates at this five-floor property on an exceptionally fine stretch at the far western end of this famous strand are probably the lowest you’re going to find—around US$230 per night in high season. The service is good and so are the 231 rooms. Amenities include a long rectangular pool, a gym, a pair of good restaurants, a couple of bars, room service, Wi-Fi and, of course, that all-important silken beach (which is a short walk away).
ELDEMIRE’S TROPICAL ISLAND INN
18 Pebbles Way
South Sound, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-949-5387
eldemire.com
At this dozen-unit charmer down south on the coast a mile below George Town, you get not just an intimate hideaway but possibly the island’s best deal, starting at about US$135 a night in high season—and if you stay for more than four nights, another $15 off that. Run for almost a decade by Tootie Eldemire Huddleston, it’s not the Ritz-Carlton, obviously, but the studios and apartments are pleasant and sport pretty much all the basic amenities you’ll need (including cable, AC and even Wi-Fi). There’s a small pool for cooling off; Smith’s Cove Beach is a 10-minute stroll away. There’s good dining nearby too.
GRAND CAYMAN MARRIOTT BEACH RESORT
389 West Bay Rd.
Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-949-0088, 800-399-7641
marriottgrandcayman.com
Just a hop and a skip north of George Town (making it especially convenient for shopping, dining and entertainment), this five-story Mediterranean-flavored Marriott is one of the island’s better resorts. It got even nicer after its $15 million makeover following 2004’s Hurricane Ivan, adding fresh landscaping, new sand on the beach and sundry remodeling in both rooms and public areas. The 295 big rooms have balconies, earth-toned tropical motifs and dark wood. On-premises amenities include five restaurants and bars, a pool and hot tubs and an expanded spa (with an appealing couples suite). It’s a mite too popular with groups for a truly intimate honeymoon, but if you’re into bells, whistles and convenience, it’s a smart choice.
LITTLE CAYMAN BEACH RESORT
Blossom Village
Little Cayman
Tel: 345-948-1033, 800-327-3835
littlecayman.com
Think Cayman Brac is tiny and laid-back? Compared with Little Cayman, the smallest and least-populated of the three islands, it’s practically Cancun. There are barely a dozen lodgings on Little Cayman, and this attractive two-story beachfront property down on the southwest shore near the airport, the main village and the birder’s paradise known as the Booby Pond offers the best mix of amenities and location. Like everyplace else on Little Cayman, it tends to cater to divers. The dozen ocean-view and 28 pool-view rooms are pleasant if unremarkable—a couple of notches above upscale motel—but they’re fairly spacious and well equipped (TV, AC and so forth). Completing the picture are an L-shaped pool, a bar, a good restaurant, a tennis court, a gym and a cute little spa.
THE RITZ-CARLTON, GRAND CAYMAN
West Bay Road
Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345 943-9000, 800-241-3333
www.ritzcarlton.com/grandcayman
This 365-room resort, which debuted in 2005, covers 144 acres, from one coast of Grand Cayman to the other. It lies on both sides of the road, the two halves connected by a bridge. It’s fully as impressive and opulent as you’d expect and, of course, packed with upscale extras: two great pools; the Caribbean’s first La Prairie spa; five restaurants, including a pair overseen by Eric Ripert of New York City’s Le Bernardin (see Eat); a Nick Bollettieri tennis program; and a nine-hole Greg Norman golf course. The decor is the usual Ritz-Carlton Eurotraditional. The spacious rooms (even more spacious in the section called the Reserve) have balconies. The snap-to service from the nearly 1,000-person staff reflects the chain’s eager-to-please ethos more than the laid-back islands’ style.
ROCKY SHORE GUEST HOUSE & VILLAS
30 Grass Piece Lane
West Bay, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-946-0117, 866-845-6943
getaway.ky
For another intimate, very affordable oasis up on West Bay, just a mile and a half north of the hurly-burly of Seven Mile Beach (and not far from Cobalt Coast—see above), consider Chris and Trina Christian’s eight villas in a quiet residential neighborhood. The units are fresh, colorful and clean, with all the basic mod cons and either a kitchenette or a full kitchen. Chris is a Caymanian artist; besides painting wonderful impressionistic island scenes, he runs Cayman Traditional Arts (getaway.ky/traditional.htm). His guests get treated to crafts and cooking demonstrations. There’s no pool, though one should be in place by December 2008. And no beach—for appealing sand, you have to drive down to Seven Mile Beach.
WESTIN CASUARINA RESORT AND SPA
West Bay Road
Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-945-3800, 800-937-8461
westincasuarina.net
About midway along Seven Mile Beach stands the elegant Westin, another of Grand Cayman’s we’ve-got-it-all properties. Its rooms and public areas have a flavor not unlike the Ritz-Carlton’s, but it’s less pricey than the R-C and boasts a wider beach than the one at the Marriott. Like both of those places, it’s not exactly a hideaway—there are 343 units. But you’ll get a fine experience with few surprises and such amenities as a great pool with a swim-up bar; a beautiful full-service spa; some of the island’s best dining (the nouvelle Latino at the open-air oceanfront Casa Havana is world-class, and the Sunday brunch is famous); and rooms with balconies and marble baths. All in all, a pretty great luxury value.
BEACH-BUMMING
Grand Cayman’s Seven Mile Beach (it’s actually only five and a half miles), along the island’s western coast, is one of the Caribbean’s most famous strands, with clear, calm waters, an abundance of water sports and services and—often—lots of people. For more seclusion, head out to Grand Cayman’s less-touristed East End; to Spotts Beach on the south shore; or to Cayman Kai on the north side. Rum Point, nearby on the north side, offers a bit more action. For snorkeling, a northern stretch of Seven Mile called Cemetery Beach is the spot. Smith’s Cove, south of George Town, is also good. The sister islands are fabulous for diving but less so for beaching. Most of the available sands already have resorts on them, though there are exceptions, including pristine Sandy Point on Little Cayman, and Cayman Brac’s public strand on the south side of the West End.
YOU CAN CALL ME RAY
OK, maybe Steve Irwin’s relationship with stingrays didn’t end so well, but every year thousands of people safely and happily cavort with the critters at several spots throughout the Caribbean. North Sound’s Stingray City (caymanislands.ky/to_do/activities_stingray.aspx) is the most famous. For years divers and snorkelers have been attracting fevers (i.e., groups) of curious, gentle southern stingrays, up to six feet in width, to hang out and be petted and—especially—hand-fed squid, their favorite snack. Non-divers and even nonswimmers can also play, wading in waist-deep at Stingray Sandbar. Among the many outfits running excursions, try Bayside Watersports (345-949-3200; baysidewatersports.com) or Red Sail Sports (345-945-5965; redsailcayman.com).
GO TO HELL
North of Seven Mile Beach, a lot of the coast is craggy and black, and somebody had the bright idea to dub a stretch of jagged limestone and dolomite resembling brimstone Hell (345-949-6999; tab.ky/html/hell.html). In the district of West Bay, it’s mildly interesting. You check out the black expanse, like stalagmites crossed with a lava field, from a viewing platform. After that it’s all about mailing postcards from Hell from the little post office; taking pictures in front of the sign that reads "Hell"; and buying satanic souvenirs from a guy dressed as the Prince of Darkness working no end of lame demonic jokes and puns. FYI, if there’s a cruise ship or two in, it can get crowded as ... heck.
A VISIT TO THE VARMINTS
On Grand Cayman’s northeast point, below Seven Mile Beach, it’s worth a couple of hours of your time to visit a setup called Boatswain’s Beach (825 Northwest Point Rd.; 345-949-3894; boatswainsbeach.ky), pronounced "Bo’sun’s Beach." This 23-acre animal park and research facility is best known for its huge seagoing turtles—Greens, Loggerheads and Hawksbills. (They also serve turtle steaks at the restaurant.) Other critters on hand include iguanas, sharks, eels and various and sundry Caribbean fish and birds. You can go snorkeling amid some of them in a lagoon with a re-created reef; hang out in a tropically landscaped pool complete with a pair of waterfalls; check out some local artisan demos; and, of course, eat, drink and buy stuff. A nice change of pace.
DIVE, WE SAID
Veteran divers rate the Cayman Islands at or near the top of their lists in the Caribbean, with warm waters, excellent visibility (on occasion up to 200 feet) and a plethora of fabulous wrecks, reefs and walls to explore. There are dozens of dive and snorkeling operators and shops, and one of the West Indies’ largest concentrations of dive resorts (see Sleep). Eden Rock (345-949-7243; edenrockdive.com) offers instruction for beginners. Others include Absolute Divers (345-916-4133; absolutedivers.com), Deep Blue Divers (345-916-1293; deepbluediverscayman.com) and Divetech (345-946-5658; divetech.com). On Cayman Brac, try InDepth Watersports (345-948-8037; indepthwatersports.com). On Little Cayman, check out Reef Divers at Little Cayman Beach Resort (345-948-1033; littlecayman.com/diving—see Sleep). For more info and the names of more operators, visit divecayman.ky.
SAIL AWAY, SAIL AWAY
This trio of islands and their brilliantly crystalline waters may not be quite the boaty mecca that, say, the British Virgin Islands are, but a spin out on the water with one of the many sailing excursions—for a sunset or a dinner, or a day trip stopping to enjoy a deserted beach, cast a line, snorkel on an offshore reef or kayak the coast—is a treat you shouldn’t miss. Local outfitters operate catamarans, sloops, powerboats, you name it, and often offer dive trips. Top operators include Red Sail Sports (345-945-5965; redsailcayman.com), Sail Cayman (345-916-4333; sailcayman.com) and the high-powered racing boat Thriller Cayman (345-324-0520; thrillercayman.ky).
PEDRO FOR PARLIAMENT
These islands’ major historic landmark is an imposing three-story great house and outbuildings on Grand Cayman’s mid south shore, near Bodden Town. Up on a limestone bluff with a superb view of the sea, the Pedro St. James Historic Site (Pedro Castle Road, Savannah; 345-947-3329; pedrostjames.ky) dates from 1780. In 1831, Caymanians elected their first parliament here. These days it’s been expensively restored and upgraded; now it’s crammed with period furnishings, along with a gift shop, a cafe and a theater with a snazzy 3-D multimedia presentation on Caymanian history (don’t worry, it’s only 20 minutes long). You can also rent it out for a wedding or reception.
ANOTHER SMATTERING OF SIGHTSEEING
There’s not a lot of historical architecture left, frankly. Too much of it has gone the way of George Town’s 18th-century Fort George, which, as the country’s National Trust notes, "was largely destroyed by a developer in 1972." Still, the trust runs more than a dozen sites on Grand Cayman and three more on the sister islands—not just historic but also nature-oriented. One of the highlights is what’s left of Fort George. Also in George Town, don’t miss the Cayman Islands National Museum in the former Old Courts Building, reopening in December 2008 after an extensive renovation (Harbour Drive; 345-949-8368; museum.ky); and, for local art, the National Gallery of the Cayman Islands (Harbour Place, South Church Street; 345-945-8111; nationalgallery.org.ky). In Bodden Town, there are the Mission House, the Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park and Brac Parrot Reserve. For more information, call 345-949-0121 or visit nationaltrust.org.ky.
BODACIOUS BOARDING
Here’s something a little different, if you’re of a jockish bent. The islands’ latest big deal, down toward the southern outskirts of George Town, is the Black Pearl Skate and Surf Park (Grand Harbour Center, Red Bay Road; 345-947-4161, 345-526-4000; blackpearl.ky). The world’s second-largest outdoor concrete skateboarding park, it comprises 52,000 square feet of bowls, half pipes and quarter pipes. It also has a Waveloch surf machine, which generates perfect 11-foot waves. You can also take surfing lessons or just watch. For thrills on real waves, head out to the East End, where the windsurfing is wicked. Get yourself set up with a board (and lessons if you want) at Tortuga Divers, at Morritt’s Tortuga Club and Resort (345-947-2097; tortugadivers.com).
CARNIVAL AND CAPTAIN HOOK
What could be more Caribbean than a good Carnival? The Caymans’ annual Carnival Batabano (345-949-7105; caymancarnival.com) is named for the tracks of nesting sea turtles. It’s a relatively new affair—the first one took place in 1984—and it’s not in February. If you happen to be down here in late April–early May (2008 dates are April 26 and May 1–3), it’s a celebration the locals really get into, with lots of bands, outrageous costumes and floats, and nonstop dancing. Later in the year, perhaps a tad touristy but still a hoot is Pirates Week (345-949-5078; piratesweekfestival.com), stretching through 11 days in early November. Events include parades, races, street festivals, costume contests and fireworks. Oh—and much grog consumption.
BAYSHORE MALL
South Church Street at Goring Avenue
George Town, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-949-7477
Grand Cayman boasts some of the Caribbean’s sharper shopping, especially of the duty-free variety. The latest (2004) and some say greatest shopping mall hereabouts is this one on the George Town waterfront. It has a large Kirk Freeport store (a local jewelry powerhouse specializing in high-end watches and baubles from brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe and Cartier). Other boutiques include TOUS, Lladró, Lalique, Swatch, La Parfumerie and Caribbean Collections. A pizzeria and a Häagen-Dazs provide the carbs and sugar. If you feel inspired to see these isles from the air, stop in and make a booking at Cayman Islands Helicopters. Be sure to check out the 12-foot-tall stingray fountain.
CATHY CHURCH’S PHOTO CENTRE AND GALLERY
Sunset House Hotel
George Town, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-949-7415
cathychurch.com
Are you into marine life? The Caymans are second to none in the Caribbean for diving and snorkeling. This shop at the Sunset House, a dive resort a mile south of George Town, showcases the underwater photography of Cathy Church, a Pennsylvania-born marine biologist. Graceful stingrays, vivid reef fish and corals, and divers in glorious haloes of water-filtered sunlight are among the many images. More unusual are the spectacularly elegant black-and-white shots. You can get the photographs as beautiful high-gloss prints, magnets or note cards.
CAYMAN CRAFT MARKET
South Church Street at Boilers Road
George Town, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-949-3999
Just down from the cruise dock, near the Hard Rock Cafe, this local-government-backed collection of tent-covered booths in a nice little open plaza debuted in 2000, offering a good selection of straw-market-type merchandise and more, at prices usually a little lower than at traditional souvenir shops. There are woven bags and hats, leather goods, wood carvings, shell and other art, books, CDs, jewelry and (inevitably) T-shirts. Check out Launa Batten’s caymanite necklaces and bracelets (you might even catch her making them on the spot), and stop by the Cayman Sea Salt booth (caymanseasalt.com) for some of the savory sprinkles—there are versions both for eating and for the bathtub. Speaking of eating, you’ll also find local candies and other foods for sale.
GUY HARVEY GALLERY AND SHOPPE
49 South Church St.
George Town, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-943-4891
guyharveyinc.com
A white Jamaican who’s been living in the Caymans with his wife and kids since 2000, marine biologist Guy Harvey is a conservationist, artist, angler, and TV personality and producer—a little like Steve Irwin, Jacques Cousteau and John James Audubon rolled into one. His two-story, 4,000-square-foot George Town emporium (look for the statue of the writhing swordfish out front) sells a tasteful selection of T-shirts, resortwear and other gifts, but the stars of the show are his oils, watercolors, giclées, lithographs and limited-edition prints, depicting feisty marine critters so vivid they all but leap off the walls at you. If you’re feeling peckish, you can tuck into said critters at his excellent restaurant right next door.
ICOA FINE FOODS
Seven Mile Shops
West Bay Road, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-945-1915
icoacafe.com
Chocoholic alert! India-born Shruty Nakhwa and Dutchman Jurgen Wevers are master confectioners, creating bodacious bonbons with sensual fillings you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else. (Well, maybe your hotel or resort—Icoa also sells in some of the better ones.) Among the most popular choices are lobster-shaped Cayman key lime bonbons; dark-chocolate pistachio-cinnamon praline pyramids; and a lovers’ special, white chocolate hearts filled with passion-fruit cream. Other flavors include coconut, rum, pineapple, coffee, banana and Caribbean spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and honey). You can enjoy Chef Jurgen’s nouvelle international cuisine in the adjacent dining room. Ioca also caters weddings.
ISLAND GLASSBLOWING STUDIO
189 North Church St.
George Town, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-946-1483
islandglassblowing.com
Head to this studio and gallery on the George Town waterfront next to the Burger King to watch British master glassblower Stephen Victor Zawistowski, his son-in-law, Matthew, and his son, Oliver (who performs more and more of the actual flame work these days), do their thing. They turn out vibrantly colored bowls, vases, dishes and plates, as well as necklaces, earrings and cuff links. Along with Stephen’s wife, Carol Ann, they also make sculptures and figurines—playful blue dolphins, emerald-green turtles. One of their most stunning pieces is an elaborate glass facsimile of a conch shell.
PURE ART GALLERY AND GIFTS
South Church Street and Denham Thompson Way
Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-949-9133
pureart.ky
Pure Art has been in business for more than two decades; it’s now owned by U.S. escapee Debbie Chase van der Bol. You’ll find it in an old white clapboard cottage just over a mile south of George Town. It’s a charming one-stop shop for both art and crafts. Debbie sells her own sunny pictures, including still lifes and island scenes in watercolor and ink. She also represents nearly four dozen other local artists, including John Broad (check out his 500-tile historical work outside), Lorna Griggs (watercolor seascapes and landscapes) and Charles Long (scenes of everyday Caribbean life). On the crafts side, rustic straw hats and bags join ceramics, candles, wood carvings and jewelry made from beads, shells and caymanite; you can also pick up sarongs, spices and preserves and more.
RICHARD’S BLACK CORAL
8 Harbour Dr.
George Town, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-949-7156
exploreuw.com/richardsblackcoral
You may have spotted some of Peter Davey’s one-of-a-kind stunners in black coral, gold, diamonds and opal on some high-profile actors and athletes. The distinctive spiny coral he uses is increasingly rare. Davey and the other master artisans at this quarter-century-old George Town waterfront shop incorporate it into vivid rings, necklaces and small, detailed sculptures, like a spotted eagle ray cruising a reef. (Don’t worry—living coral is never harvested for any of this work.) Prices range from $55 to a cool $25,000. They’ll also do special commissions (in as little as a day, depending on the complexity), either from your design or after having a chat with you about your tastes.
TORTUGA RUM CO. LTD.
260 North Sound Rd.
Grand Cayman
(Also 17 other Grand Cayman locations)
Tel: 345-949-7701
tortugarums.com
Founded in 1984 by an airline pilot, this family-owned outfit started with Tortuga Gold; today it turns out 10 more blends. All have made a splash throughout the Caribbean, including an aged-12-years Premium Label, various flavored rums (banana, coconut, etc.) and rum and coffee liqueurs. The rum cakes may be even more popular than the booze, with eight flavors, including pineapple, chocolate, key lime and coffee—you can actually cop a buzz off ’em. Browse, sample and watch the cakes being baked at the 10,000-square-foot flagship store, a 10-minute drive outside George Town. It also sells rum fudge and truffles, Tortuga sauces and coffee blends, logo hats and T-shirts and select island-music CDs. There are more outlets at South Church Street at Boilers Road, the cruise terminals, the airport and elsewhere.
TROPICAL L’ATTITUDE
Butterfield Building
Main Street
George Town, Grand Cayman
Tel: 345-945-1233
tropicallattitude.com
Look for the festive L-with-sun-and-palm-tree logo. Caymanian Harriet Lott has run this 1,200-square-foot shop, right across from George Town’s main post office and next to Butterfield Bank, since 1999. Working with 75 of the islands’ better artisans and seamstresses, she has assembled a cool variety of custom-made stuff. There’s tropical wear for men, women and children, along with the best bevy of beach wraps and handpainted batik sarongs around. You’ll also find batik paintings; household stuff like placemats, utensils and bowls; nifty mahogany boxes with sliding lids and lacelike inlay; and lovely handpainted eggs the size of softballs.
