- Honeymoons
- Top Destinations
- Caribbean
- Bahamas
BAHAMAS: NEW PROVIDENCE & GRAND BAHAMA
Caribbean Destinations:
WHY WE LOVE IT
- Pink and white sand; warm, clear water; green pines and mangroves; "blue holes" (underwater caves); wreck diving; yachting and fishing.
- The powdery sands of Cable Beach.
- The historic architecture of Nassau.
- All that glitters: the gaming and glitz of Nassau and Paradise Island.
- The shopping in Port Lucaya Marketplace.
WHEN TO GO
Mid-December through mid-April is high season, which means you can find bargains May through November. Granted, those months coincide with the rainy—and hurricane—season; fortunately, big storms are few and far between.
WHAT TO PACK
Bathing suits, polarized sunglasses, sunblock, camera, U.S. passport, U.S. dollars in small denominations (accepted along with Bahamian dollars), binoculars (if you’re a birder). For evenings, "smart casual" clothing; a small number of the fancier restaurants request that men wear jackets at dinner.
WHAT TO BUY
Mats, hats, bags and more from the Nassau and Freeport Straw Markets; hot-pepper sauce; Junkanoo and Bahama Mama dolls; natural sponges; artistic quilts.
TOURIST INFO
Start out with the Ministry of Tourism’s toll-free number (800-224-2627) or Web site (bahamas.com). Tourist offices in the United States are in Chicago (8600 Bryn Mawr Ave., Suite 1300; 773-867-8377), Los Angeles (11400 West Olympic Blvd., Suite 200; 310-312-9544, 800-439-6993), New York (60 East 42nd St., Suite 1850; 212-758-2777) and Plantation, Florida (1200 South Pine Island Road, Suite 750; 954-236-9292). In Canada, the toll-free number is 800-667-3777 and the office is near Toronto in Mississaug, Ontario (6725 Airport Road, Suite 202; 905-672-9017). There are also a Grand Bahama Web site (grandbahamavacations.com), a toll-free Ministry of Tourism number (800-327-9019), and a Web site (nassauparadiseisland.com) devoted to New Providence.
GETTING MARRIED IN THE BAHAMAS
You can apply for a license at Nassau’s Registrar General (242-323-0594) the day after you arrive; you should receive it the next day. The fee is $100. You’ll need your passport, birth certificate and proof of date of entry into the Bahamas (a passport stamp, airline ticket or immigration card will suffice). If you’re divorced or widowed, you’ll also need copies of the divorce decree or death certificate. If you’ve never been married, the authorities will want an affidavit to that effect from a notary back home.
BAHAMIAN KITCHEN RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE
Trinity Place, off Market Street
Nassau, New Providence
Tel: 242-325-0702
Paradise Island, Cable Beach and to a certain extent Nassau are ever more awash in chichi dining spots catering to sophisticated visitors. But first we want to mention this homey, sometimes busy spot on a side street in the heart of downtown, where you can find some real-deal Bahamian grub and hang with real-deal locals. Seafood’s big—you can’t go too wrong with the snapper, grouper or conch (this last cracked or in fritters or chowder). Service? Usually pretty friendly, if a bit on "island time"—but jeez, Louise, you’re chilling on your honeymoon, and hanging out with a couple of cold ones gives you all the more time to soak up the local flavor.
BECKY’S RESTAURANT & LOUNGE
East Sunrise Highway at East Beach Drive
Freeport, Grand Bahama
Tel: 242-352-5247
For a sampling of some down-home Bahamian soul food at very down-home prices, look for the yellow building with white trim and plop yourself down next to the locals at this laid-back, casual (well, not too casual—no swimsuits) joint in untouristy Freeport, right near the International Bazaar and Perfume Factory (see Shop). Yes, there is a Becky: She and hubby Berkeley Smith can be found here most days, making sure the cracked conch, peas ’n’ rice (rice and beans) and souse (meat or fish stew boiled with citrus juice and veggies) keep coming. Wash it all down with some crisp Kalik beer—or simply skip the food and knock back a few Kaliks or whatever’s your poison during happy hour (5–7 p.m.).
COMPASS POINT
West Bay Street
Gambier, New Providence
Tel: 242-327-4500
compasspointbeachresort.com
You’d pretty much expect a resort centered on a cluster of Crayola-hued wooden luxury shacks to have an equally whimsical yet high-quality cantina. And sure enough, the feel here, out on Love Beach (west of Cable Beach), is funky and festive. The restaurant’s roomy poolside terrace is a great spot for taking in a dramatic Bahamian sunset while downing some exceptionally tasty fare, from New American (baby back ribs marinated in the restaurant’s own special sauce) to straight-ahead Caribbean (pan-fried conch) to imaginative hybrids (a seafood pot pie including lobster, conch and shrimp with vegetables and potatoes baked in a puffed pastry). The wine list may not be long, but it’s eclectic and well chosen.
DUNE
One&Only Ocean Club
Paradise Island, Bahamas
Tel. 242-363-2501, ext. 64757
oneandonlyresorts.com
Set amid the dunes of Paradise Island in one of the Bahamas’ most upscale resorts, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s only foothold down in the islands is a study in dramatic black minimalist chic from French interior design superstar Christian Liaigre. Here J.-G. takes some of the signature dishes from his New York restaurants (Jean Georges, Vong, Mercer Kitchen, etc.) and gooses ’em with a little Caribbean zing, to produce such delectables as roasted grouper with an herb mash. Foodies like sitting by the blue-glass wall facing into the kitchen; lovers prefer the open-air terrace with sweeping views over the big blue.
THE FERRY HOUSE RESTAURANT
Bell Channel, Port Lucaya
Grand Bahama
Tel: 242-373-1595
ferryhousebahamas.com
If Freeport is the place to find plenty of homier, less pricey cooking, next-door Lucaya leavens that scene with a generous dollop of upscale sophistication, and this charmer right in the thick of the shopping district may be the snappiest player in town. Current chef Pascale Burrows came on board in 2007 and turns out a French/Caribbean/Asian fusion. The creative concoctions lean mostly toward seafood, on the order of grouper with coconut curry sauce or broiled scallops on the half shell with lemongrass and chili-infused coconut sauce. (Don’t worry, not every dish is punctuated with coconut.) You’ll like the room too—warm, contemporary, and romantically lit, with nifty water views. (The martini bar actually floats on pontoons.)
GRAYCLIFF
8-12 West Hill Street
Nassau, New Providence
Tel: 242-302-9150, 800-476-0446
graycliff.com/dining
If a restaurant can be said to be a grande dame, this is it, with colonial decor and a kitchen that uses top-flight ingredients and whose notion of fine dining hails from your parents’ (maybe even your grandparents’) generation —foie gras, filet mignon, rack of lamb and a huge wine cellar from which you could request, say, an 1845 Centenary Solera Bual. The vintage ambience is at least half the appeal here; you start with cocktails in the parlor, graduate to dinner in the library, then enjoy a cigar hand-rolled on the premises. You might find it stuffy and dated—or you might agree with some that this is the best restaurant on New Providence.
MESA GRILL
The Cove Atlantis
Paradise Island, New Providence
Tel: 877-268-3847
mesagrill.com/bahamas
Yep, as of spring 2007 Bobby Flay, that guru of Southwestern cuisine, has joined fellow celeb chefs Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Nobu Matsuhisa in getting a little island sand in his shoes at Atlantis—in this case, at its boutique resort within a resort, the Cove. Earth tones and reds lend warmth to the flagstone-floored contemporary dining room. Navajo motifs and touches of cowhide prime you for blue-corn pancakes with barbecued duck and other Flay signatures, all prepared in a central open kitchen. But it’s not all the same-old same-old: Flay has also come up with several items of tasty new Bahamian-Southwestern fusion. For example, he zings the orange vinaigrette on crispy squid and cracked conch salad with a little chipotle.
THE POOP DECK SANDY PORT
West Bay Street
Cable Beach, New Providence
Tel: 242-327-3325
thepoopdeck.com
This ochre-hued, white-roofed local classic overlooks the strand out toward the western reaches of Cable Beach at Sandy Port. It serves up the same tasty island fare as the original Poop Deck on Nassau’s yacht haven, from plain (grouper fingers, cracked conch) to a little fancier (snapper stuffed with baby spinach, shrimp and scallops in a caper-butter cream). What it adds is a much prettier, much more elegant setting; dining on the back porch as the waves crash a hundred feet away is one of the most romantic picks in town. They’ve even made something of a specialty of hosting and catering weddings right out on the sand.
SABOR RESTAURANT
Pelican Bay Hotel & Suites
Grand Bahama
Tel: 242-373-9550
sabor-bahamas.com
Sabor is Spanish for flavor, but don’t expect Latino fare—this is one of the latest additions to the smallish but growing nouvelle Bahamian dining scene (in this case, with a French accent) on Grand Bahama. Do expect outstanding dishes, like a juicy veal chop with baby squash in coconut emulsion or grouper encrusted with sun-dried tomato, almonds and thyme. Sunday brunch is a treat too, starring not just traditional Bahamian boiled fish but also a half-dozen tasty eggs Benedict variations. What really seals the deal for us is the dreamy setting, poolside at Pelican Bay, overlooking Bell Channel Bay and Port Lucaya Marina. And if you’re here on a Saturday night, you get a bonus serenade of live jazz.
ATLANTIS
Paradise Island
Tel: 242-363-3000, 888-528-7155
atlantis.com
This 3,414-room Leviathan is the pricey 800-pound—um, make that 800,000,000-pound—gorilla of Bahamas resorts. With marine- and mythical-themed decor in the Royal, Coral and Beach Towers ranging from whimsical to bombastic, it feels very Las Vegas–meets–Orlando theme park, embedded as it is in a complex the size of a small town or two, with beaches, pools, bars/nightclubs, a huge casino, shops, lagoons, waterfalls, a water park, an excellent aquarium and more (see Play). The two dozen–plus dining options include some of the biggest guns in celebrity chefdom (Nobu, Mesa Grill—see Eat), and the rooms are attractive, spacious and impeccably kept. Is it right for your honeymoon? If you want to be wined, dined and entertained within an inch of your life, you bet. If you’re looking for low-key and intimate, maybe not—unless you feel like splurging even more for the boutique property within the property, the Cove Atlantis, or the resort's sister property, One&Only Ocean Club (see below).
BRITISH COLONIAL HILTON
1 Bay Street
Nassau, New Providence
Tel: 242-322-3301, 800-445-8667
hiltoncaribbean.com/nassau
And now for something completely different. For a low-key taste of regal historic character with your sun ’n’ sand, the Bahamas’ premier dowager —seven stories built on the waterfront in 1900 (and rebuilt in 1923 after a fire)—could be just the ticket. The public spaces evoke the olden days beautifully, with marble floors, arched skylit windows, crystal chandeliers and a lovely pool area set between gardens and the beach. (Look familiar? It served as backdrop for two James Bond flicks.) The 288 units may not be as big and glitzy as some newer resort rooms, but they boast an elegant simplicity, in a Tommy Bahama kind of way. A pair of good restaurants, two bars and a fitness center round out the amenities. (If a beach is important to you, though, keep in mind that the one here is small and nothing special.)
THE COVE ATLANTIS
Paradise Island, New Providence
Tel: 242-363-6900, 877-268-3847 (Reservations)
thecoveatlantis.com
If you want to be near all the Atlantis action but prefer something a little more secluded, adult-oriented and boutiquey than the mammoth casino-hotel, consider this 600-room property, which opened in 2007 off on its own beach in its own corner of the larger property—it’s merely huge rather than monumental. Both public areas and rooms feel airy (the soaring lobby, in fact, is literally open to the breezes), and they’re appointed in luxurious woods and stone with a sleek minimalist flavor. On-premises are two pools (one adults-only, the other family-oriented) and a pair of restaurants, including Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill (see Eat). Other perks—the casino, the nightclub, the spa and so forth—are, of course, shared with the rest of Atlantis (though the spa offers in-room services for Cove guests).
GRAYCLIFF RESORT & RESTAURANT
8-12 West Hill Street
Nassau, New Providence
Tel: 242-302-9150, 800-476-0446
graycliff.com
It may have only 20 rooms, but historically speaking this handsome Nassau inn makes the British Colonial Hilton look like a big-boned teenager. Built by a pirate captain in 1740, Graycliff has colonial atmosphere, an intimate scope, and fine service and dining, all of which add up to a honeymoon homerun. It’s not bad in the amenities department either—two pools and two restaurants, a renowned wine cellar, plus a full-service gym. The 11 rooms in the main house are large, and many are antiques-appointed; the half-dozen garden units are more contemporary in feel. (If you’re dead set on being on the beach, however, you’ll want to drop your bags on another cliff.) And if you’re a stogie aficionado, the only cigar factory in the Bahamas is right here on the premises.
ONE&ONLY OCEAN CLUB
Paradise Island, Bahamas
Tel: 242-363-2501, 800-321-3000
oneandonlyresorts.com
A member of the Leading Hotels of the World, the top of the line at Atlantis is constructed around a gracious 1939 manse built by a Swedish mogul on the eastern end of what was then called Hog Island. Exclusivity, pampering and intimacy are still the bywords. The surroundings are certainly opulent, incorporating elaborate stepped gardens, statuary and remnants of a 14th-century cloister imported from France (popular for weddings). The rest of the facilities are suitably first-class: The pools and baby-powdery beach; the Asian-style spa; the pair of restaurants (including Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Dune—see Eat); the 18-hole Tom Weiskopf links; the half-dozen tennis courts; and the 105 rooms and villas, poshly but discreetly furnished in a woody tropical-colonial style. Cindy Crawford got married here, and you may well spot a celeb yourself.
ORANGE HILL BEACH INN
West Bay Street
Orange Hill, New Providence
Tel: 242-327-7157
orangehill.com
Small-inn charm and super affordability make Judy and Danny Lowe’s complex, whose lobby dates back to the 1920s, on a palmy three-acre plot west of Cable Beach and not far from Love Beach, a truly swell post-nup perch. The place has a B&B vibe, exuding friendly, intimate coziness, and though we’ve plugged Love Beach as a romantic getaway (see Play), the stretch out back here is also a beaut, and you’re likely to have it almost or entirely to yourselves. If you don’t want to get sand in your suits, there’s a nice pool too. The 33 rooms are fresh and bright, with tile floors and blond wood furniture, and there’s a small restaurant with a good, if limited, menu. For those who haven’t rented a car, the inn runs a shuttle to the local grocery store, and the bus to Cable Beach and Nassau passes regularly out front.
PELICAN BAY HOTEL & SUITES
Sea Horse Road, Port Lucaya
Grand Bahama
Tel: 242-373-9550, 800-852-3702
pelicanbayhotel.com
For a smaller, lower-key but still high-quality Grand Bahama alternative to Our Lucaya (see below), here’s a five-story, 183-room resort that feels like a colorful village on a promontory jutting into the bay. (Don’t worry—it’s just a quick stroll to a pair of lovely beaches; and Port Lucaya Marketplace and Marina, with all its shopping, dining and entertainment, is right next door.) The regular rooms are pleasant and wicker-appointed, and the suites have major-league style, with white-slip-covered furniture, polished cement floors and mod Caribbean art; all have terraces or balconies. With three pools and a pair of nice restaurants (one of them, Sabor, is better than nice—see Eat), this is a real find with real class.
THE WESTIN GRAND BAHAMA ISLAND OUR LUCAYA RESORT
Royal Palm Road, Port Lucaya
Grand Bahama
Tel: 242-373-1333
westin.com/ourlucaya
Granted, Grand Bahama doesn’t remotely compete over-the-top-wise with Atlantis. But Starwood’s Our Lucaya complex is the closest it comes, comprising two big, well-equipped resorts sprawling across 372 beachside acres. That second resort is a fine Sheraton, but for honeymooners this wavy white wedge of a Westin sports a bit more sophisticated adult vibe. The 740 rooms have a contemporary yet comfy and accessible feel, and the combined amenities are impressive: one infinity pool that wraps around the Westin’s lounging area out back; 13 restaurants and bars, including the acclaimed nouvelle Caribbean Irie’s (if you’re looking to save, Port Lucaya Marketplace right across the street has gentler prices); a retail promenade; a pair of great golf courses; and the Isle of Capri casino, the biggest in the Bahamas after Atlantis.
SHERATON CABLE BEACH RESORT
West Bay Street
Cable Beach, Nassau
New Providence
Tel: 242-327-6000, 800-325-3535
sheraton.com/cablebeach
In the market for a big-resort experience out on Cable Beach? One of the finest is this beige nine-story modern complex. It anchors an attractive seven-acre pool area with blue-roofed pavilions and a trio of heated pools (one free-form with waterfalls; another free-form with bridges, islands, grottoes and waterfalls; a third with a bar that’s swim-up on one side and opens onto the beach on the other). The 694 rooms sport crisp contemporary decor, and there are three spots where you can get fed; the nicest is an Italian trattoria. (And depending on the time of year, you may be able to stay on an all-inclusive plan.) If you’re a gambler, you’ve hit the jackpot: the big, bodacious Crystal Palace Casino is right next door.
BEACH-BUMMING
Of New Providence’s sandy stretches, the most famous (not to mention the longest, at well over two miles) is the powdery Cable Beach, west of Nassau along the island’s northern coast. It’s worth a visit even if you’re not staying out here, since it’s crammed with things to do—water sports, dining, shopping, nightlife, you name it. (A massive redevelopment currently under way is slated to turn it into an even bigger deal.) For more solitude and romance, consider Rock Point Beach, where the 007 classic Thunderball was filmed; Orange Hill Beach, just beyond Caves Beach, a beautiful stretch you’ll likely have all to yourself if you go during the week; and Love Beach, an appropriately intimate strand good for snorkeling and better known to locals than to tourists. (It’s a dozen miles west of Nassau, so you’ll need to drive or cab it.) On Paradise Island are Paradise Beach, Snorkeler’s Cove and Honeymoon Cove off Paradise Island Drive. On Grand Bahama, Lucayan Beach is justifiably popular, but for seclusion try Gold Rock Beach in Lucayan National Park.
DISCOVERING ATLANTIS
Even if you don’t stay in one of the several resorts at Atlantis, it’s most definitely a hoot to experience as a theme park. If you’re gamblers, there’s the big honkin’ casino, of course, but it’s the outside stuff that really grabs us. Our two favorites are a life-size replica of a stepped Mayan temple, whose main feature is a waterslide with an almost vertical drop; and Aquaventure, a 63-acre set of water rides with all sorts of special effects, added in 2007. Other cool attractions: a world-class indoor-outdoor aquarium and a swim-with-the-dolphins center also added in 2007.
OLD TOWN NASSAU
Though it’s probably not the most imposing town down here in the islands, Nassau does have some charming old architecture, including the Georgian pink parliament buildings at Parliament Square; the handsome supreme court building; Christ Church Cathedral; forts Charlotte and Montagu (both outside the town proper) and Fincastle (where you can climb to via the Queen’s Staircase, 65 steps cut into sandstone by slaves in the 18th century). Three museums worth checking out are the Pompey Museum of Slavery and Emancipation, a pink neoclassical building that once held a slave market; the National Art Gallery of the Bahamas (West and West Hill Streets; nagb.org.bs); and the Pirates of Nassau (Marlborough and George Sts.; 242-356-3759). And, what the hey, how about a romantic spin in one of the horse-drawn carriages at the front of Festival Place?
LUCK BE A LADY TONIGHT
While New Providence and Grand Bahama aren’t exactly awash in casinos the way some other islands are these days, the trio it does have are pretty impressive. At more than 50,000 square feet, the biggest and best—not just in the Bahamas but in all the islands—has to be the one at Atlantis (atlantis.com/casino.aspx), which, of course, always has to have the biggest and best, featuring, among other gewgaws, three huge, dramatic Dale Chihulys. You could be in Vegas here except for one giveaway: There are great big windows, so you can actually see water and sky. The second-largest casino in all the islands is the Crystal Palace Casino (242-327-6200; wyndham.com/hotels/NASBS/casino/main.wnt ) at the Wyndham on Cable Beach, with some 450 slot machines and 44 table games. Finally, over on Grand Bahama you’ve got the 20,000-square-foot Isle of Capri Casino(242-373-1333; westin.com/ourlucaya) at Our Lucaya.
HURRAY FOR RAYS
Steve Irwin’s unfortunate end notwithstanding, stingrays are gentle and even friendly, and you’re in good hands with the folks at Powerboat Adventures (powerboatadventures.com). A 55-minute zoom from downtown Nassau brings you out to Ship Channel Cay in the Exumas, where you can feed, tickle and paddle around in the shallows with Southern Atlantic rays. This is also a great chance to explore and hang out on a (relatively) deserted tropical isle. A good lunch spread and drinks are included. It’s truly an amazing experience —and hardly ever fatal!
SCHMOOZE WITH THE LOCALS
It’s not always easy to meet locals other than the ones who serve you dinner or caddy for you. But for years the Bahamas tourism folks have been running a People-to-People program (peopletopeople@bahamas.com) on Nassau, Paradise Island and Grand Bahama. Choosing from a pool of more than a thousand volunteers, they’ll match you with one or more who share your interests in some way. You might get to go to someone’s house or on a boat ride or to church or market with them. Or, if you’re here the last Friday of any month except December, how about a tea party with prominent locals at the governor general’s place in Nassau? Sweet.
JUNKANOO/JUNKANOO EXPO
Thanks to the tourism industry, the infectious music and colorful spectacle of the Bahamian carnival has been sliced, diced and spread over the whole year, including June and July’s Junkanoo Summer Festival and performances staged when the cruise ships come into Nassau and Freeport (which is several times a week). But it’s well worth coming down at the end of the year (for which you’ll need to plan seriously ahead) to witness both towns’ real-deal traditional hoo-has, held the day after Christmas and especially New Year’s Day. It’s all about dressing up in outlandish themed costumes, parading through the streets and dancing and partying the night away, and it rivals Rio for fun. The Junkanoo Expo (242-326-0204) on Prince George Wharf will fill you in on all the lore (especially if you can’t make any of the actual festivities).
ARDASTRA GARDENS AND ZOO
Out near Fort Charlotte and Arawak Cay about a mile west of downtown Nassau, Ardastra (Chippingham Road, 242-323-5806; ardastra.com), founded way back in 1937, is a five-acre plot whose 200 resident species include a variety of monkeys, birds, reptiles and farm animals from Central and South America and beyond. Since you can see most of them at other zoos, you’ll want to focus especially on the local flora and critters like the San Salvador rock iguana, Bahama parrot, Bahama boa constrictor and especially the once endangered pink Caribbean flamingo —the country’s national bird. There’s a rare breeding flock here (more than 60 strong) that aren’t spooked by people, and—to top that—they’ve been trained to march around in formation several times a day. We’re happy enough to watch them acting like real flamingos, but the show’s certainly adorable.
FLIPPER, FLIPPER, FASTER THAN LIGHTNING
Did you know that Grand Bahama has one of the biggest dolphin operations in the whole world? Lucaya’s UNEXSO (242-373-1244, 800-992-3483; unexso.com) ferries you out to an enclosed lagoon where visitors can get some face time with bottle-nose dolphins. You can opt for a quickie (five minutes) on a floating platform or shell out a bit more to swim with these marvelous mammals for 20 minutes or so. Another cool possibility: dive with them out in the open ocean. Certified divers can plunge in with real scuba equipment; there’s also a dolphinless "scuba lite" lesson for neophytes. It’s quite a trip.
SMITH’S POINT FISH FRY
If the People-to-People program seems like just too much commitment, here’s another great chance to meet locals in Grand Bahama—and taste some wonderfully authentic local grub to boot. On Wednesday night bop over to the town of Smith’s Point, just east of Lucaya, where a few years ago locals started a fish fry on the beach as a church fundraiser. Everybody had such a blast they made it a weekly thing—and other towns copied them—but this is the original, and despite the presence of some tourists it doesn’t feel touristy. It centers on stands where the critters aren’t just fried but sometimes boiled, broiled and baked. Just grab a plate and a rum punch and plop yourself down next to a Bahamian at one of the picnic tables.
BAHAMA CRAFT CENTRE
Paradise Island
New Providence
Tel: 242-363-2832
The bright, colorful Caribbean-pastiche building designed by local architect Jackson Burnside—right by the exit bridge, across from Hurricane Hole Plaza—houses a collection of 85 vendors. Now, the place certainly has its share of the usual tourist junk, but keep looking and you’ll turn up some creative surprises made from humble materials (palm fronds, shells, coconuts), as well as conch jewelry, pine-seed dolls and driftwood paintings. It’s also a good place to stock up on Bahamian CDs. Another big plus: It’s not as jammed as the Nassau Straw Market (see below) can get, especially when the cruise ships come in.
DOONGALIK STUDIOS
18 Village Road, Nassau
Also Marina Village at Atlantis, Paradise Island
Tel: 242-363-1313
Jackson Burnside is a one-man art-and-architecture dynamo hereabouts. With his wife, Pam, he also runs this pair of galleries, one in downtown Nassau and the other over the bridge on Paradise Island in the Marina Village location. (Be sure to give the latter complex a good eyeballing —Jackson designed it too.) He sells his own locally inspired paintings, as well as those of his brother, Stan, and his friend John Beadle. These dudes’ specialty is the Junkanoo festivities (see Play); the theme reaches beyond the artworks to include masks, posters, cards, T-shirts, furniture and more. This stuff should definitely put a smile on your face.
NASSAU STRAW MARKET
Bay and George Streets, Nassau
Hats, bags, mats, dolls and lots more—all woven from the fronds of palms and sisal plants—have been a Bahamian staple for generations. The original Straw Market was burned out in 2001, but while it’s being rebuilt hundreds of mostly female vendors soldier on every day pretty much dawn till dusk in their temporary home under a big tent a couple of blocks away. It’s definitely down-home island rather than glitzy mall. You’ll also find a smattering of other goods, from wood carvings to T-shirts, many of them handmade. For the most part great, classic stuff—though personally we’d stick with the folkloric motifs and avoid Tweety Bird and Bart Simpson. Keep in mind that a certain amount of haggling is expected.
PARADISE TREASURES
Paradise Cove Beach Resort
Deadman’s Reef
Grand Bahama
Tel: 242-349-2677
deadmansreef.com/giftshop.htm
In a resort a goodly distance away from Freeport/Lucaya on Grand Bahama’s southwestern shore, up near the West End, longtime U.S. expat Yvonne Smith runs a cute little pink clapboard shop. In addition to the usual flip-flops, beachwear and T-shirts, she sells some marvelous local crafts, most notably seashells (some pretty rare—how’s a $60 shell sound?) and shell ornaments. Other merch includes nautical-themed clocks, chimes and place mats, as well as handpainted maps and some artwork.
THE PERFUME FACTORY/FRAGRANCE OF THE BAHAMAS
International Bazaar
Freeport, Grand Bahama
Tel: 242-352-9391
perfumefactory.com
One of the bright spots in the otherwise fading International Bazaar sits behind the complex in a fine Old Bahamian–style house. Inside they mix and bottle by hand 10 signature scents—and even throw in a pinch of local sand here, a bead made from conch shell there. You’ll get a short complimentary tour of the operation, but the coolest thing is the chance to create your own fragrance right on the spot. Tell the nice lady what you have in mind (floral, citrusy, whatever) and she’ll suggest oils to test and show you how to mix them. Pick a bottle, name it, and voilà: Your honeymoon has its own signature scent—L’Amour de Jack et Jill, perhaps, or Passione di Nancy e Larry.
PORT LUCAYA MARKETPLACE
Seahorse Road
Freeport, Grand Bahama
Tel: 242-373-8446
portlucayamarketplace.com
This more dynamic and diverse alternative to Freeport’s on-the-skids International Bazaar was built on nine and a half acres in 1987 in traditional colonial style. Straw pieces and other traditional island crafts form a big part of the menu, along with glitzier duty-free stock and eateries. Highlights include fine art from both established names and up-and-comers, especially at Leo’s Art Gallery; fashion, both international and local, at more than two dozen boutiques; all the big-name brands of perfume and jewelry; and the distinctive handwoven cotton fabrics from Andros island. Toss in more than a dozen places to eat and a show every Friday (weather permitting) and you can practically make a day of it here.
SEAGRAPE BOUTIQUE
West Bay Street
Nassau, New Providence
Tel: 242-327-1308
About five miles west of Nassau, and west even of Cable Beach, this neat little place not far from the airport stays away from tacky T-shirts and the like, favoring a finer class of beachwear and souvenirs. It’s the kind of stuff that’s great for gifts or honeymoon mementos—sea-glass jewelry made from bottles washed up on shore, sharks’ teeth, Andros woven baskets and Androsia print-cotton clothing, also from Andros. In addition to the shop, Canadian expat Joan Hanna owns the well-regarded restaurant next door, the Traveller’s Rest.
