Honeymoon in Portugal

Continued (page 3 of 3)

Treatment rooms in the spa (offering chocolate facials and a water-bed rest area) overlook the vineyards. Aquapura is well situated for winery tours and dinners at new restaurants such as Redondo at the Quinta de Romaneira (a quixotic, art- and antique-filled hotel near Pinhão), and the Douro Inn (specializing in local delicacies such as salt cod dumplings and Iberian pork with pimiento compote).

Before leaving Portugal, Bill and I tucked a few bottles of rich Douro wines and a vintage port into our suitcases, hoping they would make it safely home. They did, and are proving to be a delicious memory of our extraordinary journey through a little country with a very big heart. For more info, 646-723-0200 or visitportugal.com.

Where to Stay

Douro Valley
Aquapura Douro: Valley Vineyard views, hip decor and three restaurants offering trendy twists on local dishes make this one of Portugal’s most innovative hotels (doubles from $319; aquapurahotels.com).

Lapa Palace: This gem has meticulously decorated rooms (ask for the Tower Room, in an octagonal stone tower); a pool set amid gardens; and Cipriani, one of Lisbon’s best restaurants (doubles from $540; 800-237-1236 or kapapalace.com).

Reid’s Palace: The ultimate destination resort in one of Europe’s most unusual locales, Reid’s entices guests with three pools, a modern spa and six restaurants; don’t miss the champagne buffet on Tuesdays in the dining room (doubles from $395; 800-237-1236 or reidspalace.com).

Infante de Sagres: The lobby is a minimuseum, and the rooms feature European antiques and Oriental rugs; the red brocade Don Henrique suite with a private room-service door ensures you won’t be disturbed (doubles from $211; hotelinfantesagres.pt).

Pousada de Dona Maria I: With 24 rooms and two suites, this pousada offers not only charm and a palace view but one of Portugal’s most famous restaurants, the Cozinha Velha (doubles from $138; pousadas.pt).

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