Four Must-Sees: The pampering at One&Only Reethi Rah begins early, when your feet are washed for you before you enter your villa. Doubles from $990 (low season) and $1,485 (high season), with breakfast.
Not even O&O can match the decadence of Naladhu, where you could swim from your bathtub to your outdoor pool if not for a thick pane of glass. Doubles from $1,420 (low sea- son) and $2,020 (high season), with breakfast.
At the W Retreat & Spa, a glass shower floor is all that's between you and blue shallows. Doubles from $840 (low season) and $1,200 (high season).
But the ultimate fantasy with fishes may be at Huvafen Fushi, where two spa treatment rooms are underwater. Doubles from $785 (low season) and $1,235 (high season).
Don't Forget to Pack: A credit card with an insanely high limit: You don't want to be embarrassed at checkout time.
Celeb Fans: Fergie and Josh Duhamel honeymooned in this island nation (old-timers remember visits from Tom-Kat), which is populated by pimped-out, pricey resorts.—B.P.